It wasn't as noticeable as my 2016, which always popped and burbled on the overrun...although that had the louder exhaust. I also only used a few thousand revs and was pre-occupied with all the other things to play with Since putting her back together again, either the rain or work has got in the way, but I'm hoping to give her an outing at the weekend.
Thanks Andy. Before I saw your response, did a bit more googling and ebaying and found this kit which I bought - does principally the same thing as a standard strap with a hole in it so perhaps better to save money and just do that, though I can confirm that the longer straps in this kit work with the rearmost pillion grab handle mount under the seat. https://kriega.com/sports/touring/panigale-9591299-us-drypack-fit-kit
Mr triple or any other owner of the 2018 RS , can you advise if GP shift can be done with the Standard rearsets ? And more questions ! ABS ? is the sensitivity changeable? ie. tuono had abs settings for race and rain and street . Same question Traction control and how it impacts wheelies? when i checked out a 2015 model with tc and abs it wouldnt let you wheelie unless you pulled over and switched OFF tc etc ,. I owned a 2008 model which did 89,000km over its life span and ten years on keen for another taste.
Hi Stu - It sounds as if we're on opposite sides of the world and opposite riding styles GP shift? That's when you swap up for down, and down for up...right? I have no idea I'm afraid, although the rearsets are exactly the same as the 2016 onwards models. Wheelies? Again, not my style (OK maybe little ones)...again, it's similar to the 2016 in as much that you can change modes by selecting and then squeezing the clutch lever to apply (without stopping). I've never tried it, but in theory, you can set up Rider mode with TC off and select it on the go (unless there's a block on that??). There's a table in the manual that set out the mode options quite nicely:
Thanks for the reply. Gp shift yes swaps up/ down mainly for ease since my other bikes are that way. Easiest way is to swap the shift linkage where it attaches to engine. But since it goes through frame there may not be the clearance ? As per pic link swap over from oem from the linkage on the up side to the downside ? Do u think there’s clearance ? https://goo.gl/images/UhfqEV
Other more sedentary updates... I've only managed a couple of outings so far, and I'm running in using the 'running in' mode. This colours the rev bar from dark orange to bright orange as it approaches the limit, in line with the recommended maximum for the number of miles covered. For the first 90 miles it let me have 3,500 rpm (that's a painful 55 to 58mph in 6th) with 2nd and 3rd gear bends only possible at very slow speeds (or in a high gear) which messed with my flow through the bends. Then, after 90 miles, the 'orange' moved up to about 5,000 rpm, which revealed a whole new side to the bike. There's a marked induction roar and the exhaust note switches to a very healthy growl as the revs rise. I'm really thinking that these permanently baffled Arrow cans sound brilliant as they are (until I hear otherwise ). Is it really necessary to run-in according to the book? I can't say, but I've always done it like that, so I'm sticking with it. Roll on 10,500 rpm! Indicators. They have a self-cancelling option which works 80% of the time. This means I expend more energy checking they've switched off, than I would remembering to cancel them. So rather than disable the setting, I've left it on, but still cancel manually...thinking that the time I forget, might be the time they step in and do it for me. There's also a 'lane change' setting where they flash three times after a short press. This means that you have to long press to activate them fully...and a couple of times, I was no longer indicating when I should have been. That setting is now disabled. Alarm. The combination of the Triumph alarm (with fob) and keyless ignition, kind of defeats the object of putting your keys away. I'll get used to it, but it's a bit flawed.
As painful as it was I stuck to the manufacturers recommendations on my R. It hasn’t used a drop of oil since its last service even though it gets a hard time on most rides.
...and painful it is! I've had similar past experiences with only tiny top-ups required on the oil front. I don't disagree with being a bit braver (the manual describes avoiding full throttle and labouring the engine, where the tank sticker and electronic running in guide, suggest a much more rigorous routine. My son and I debated the hard running-in technique (which makes me wince). I watched some clips on YouTube about a track school that always run their bikes in like this for maximum engine performance (optimises the way the piston rings wear or something). Getting this done during the first 20 miles was said to be the key...which is fine for the track, but on new tyres, with busy traffic and speed limits, I can't see that it's an option for normal people
I too am trying to do what the sticker on the tank says. Sticking to 3500 rpm for the first 100 miles required a lot of attention. Like you say, being able to go up to 5000 transforms the bike. I have another 25 miles to do and I get rewarded with another 1000rpm, taking it up to a 6000rpm limit. But I am loving the bike. Handling is great, and so is the quickshifter. I wondered whether this would add anything to the experience off track, but it definitely does.
3500 rpm was near impossible, but what a reward getting to 5000 was At least it adds a degree of excitement and anticipation to the running in process. Have you ditched the tank sticker and switched 'Running In Mode' on?
At least it adds a degree of excitement and anticipation to the running in process. Have you ditched the tank sticker and switched 'Running In Mode' on?[/QUOTE] It does: like riding a scooter on a dual carriageway while trying to read a map, at times. The dealer set running in mode on, and I'm using that, while using the tank sticker to remind me when my next reward is due.
I pick mine up on Friday!!! Can I ask who you have insurance with, my current provider won't cover me because the bike isn't on their system!
I checked with Triumph Insurance and my current insurers Aviva (via CIA brokers) Both recognised the bike. Triumph Insurance were expensive though!
I paid £282 with Hastings for the R - but they refused to insure the RS; it's listed on their system, but they still declined. I worked through quotes from as high as £1580 (Bikesure), £980 (Carole Nash) and £725 (Triumph Insurance...which is through Adrian Flux). The best I could find was Liverpool Victoria (LV) who were refreshingly helpful to talk to. I'm still paying more than I should be at £563, but in the end, felt relieved that I could even insure the RS In comparison, I got quotes on an S1000RR and MT-10 SP for around £320. Carole Nash told me that "the RS was a very new and powerful bike, with some extras over last year's model like a belly pan and some carbon. Also, the quick shifter could result in my riding at very high revs and at speed, so the premium has to reflect this." All this will sort itself out over the next weeks/months as the rate tables settle down. Next renewal might be OK then! PS. Enjoy your picking-up-your-new-bike experience
Yes - and the RR has 160 bhp like the MT-10. They didn't want to know at all - the RS belly pan (which is the same as the R belly pan) together with the carbon that they moved from the tank sides to the side cowls obviously tips it over the edge
Yeah, had similar buffoonery when I changed from 675R to 765RS last year ... they are frightened of anything new as they can't gauge risk until they have a claims history on a model.
I'm only paying £100 for my 2016 s with Hastings, but they won't touch me until the bike is on their system.
