Hello, new member here, i joined to help out my Father who has recently bought an 09 plate Tiger 1050. He was a Honda man for 43 years, so this change of heart was suprising to say the least, but i had a go and i can see why he likes the Tiger. A few weeks after picking the bike up the battery went flat, but once jumped it worked fine, until you turned the bike off and then went to turn it straight back on again it was dead, so we put a new battery on, a YUASA YT12B-BS and all was Fine . . . or so we thought. Then the Bike sat for a couple weeks, Turned the key and it was completely dead. On the 25th November, after we charged the battery it was @ 12.70V Ignition On was 12.09V While cranking it was all over between 10V & 11V While Idling its was 14.30V Then 10 minutes after turning off it was 12.72V, straight after we un-hooked the battery from the bike. In 24 Hours un-hooked on the 26th it had dropped too 12.67V Then hooked back up on the bike and another 24 hours on the 27th it had dropped too 12.52V On the 28th it was 12.43V On the 29th it was 12.30V On the 30th it was 12.21V On the 1st of December it was 12.13V On the 2nd it was 12.05V On the 3rd it was 11.96V On the 4th it was 11.87V In comparison i have an S1000RR and on 2nd December my bikes battery was 12.82V and on the 6th it was 12.81V While the Bike was off we pulled Fuses 1 by 1 and the only Fuse that had a Volt reading was Fuse 4 (Turn Signals/Alarm/Horn/Tail lights/Sidelights/Diagnostic Plug) Me and my Father are Practical blokes, but Vehicle Electrics arent our strong point, and were struggling to find out why its Draining like it is, and its not fun seeing my Dad looking and feeling dejected by things, especailly as he seems to really like the Tiger, so any help would be Greatly Respected and Appriciated. Thank you Scott
Sorry to hear it, alarms are often blamed for battery drain, the other thing to check for is chafed insulating, check around the battery then go for the obvious where the wires go through the holes ie lamps etc
Other than as said the alarm (try disconnecting to check) it will require a lot of patient testing with a meter preferably with a beep tester to tell you where there is a short to earth.
Thanks for the Replys, to out Knowledge it doesnt have an alarm fitted, but as you say will soldier on with testing.
While the bike was Off, we disconnected the Earth and put the Multimeter from the Earth terminal to the earth wire and it showed 0.002A. We also disconnected the Live and put the Multimeter from the live terminal to the starter solinoid relay, on the Power wire and the starter feed wire and again it flicked from 0.001A too 0.000A. We also noticed that the Reg/Rec got rather warm while the bike was running.
When did the reg / rec get warm ? after it was switched off ? If so sounds like a defective reg / rec, probably a failing internal component or connection, as these are not user repairable replacement is the only option. A guide to testing the components is here, you may find it of use. https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG & RR.pdf?dl=0
Seems to be consistently loosing its charge whether connected or not. These are small batteries and so even a good one will loose charge quicker than a car battery. most people on here use this;- https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/mo...00Efx4WUYcDbOLqhEL3mTEaIqbAQ4MZhoCL94QAvD_BwE or something like it. 9 times out of 10 its the battery. Seems like you need a battery tender or a new battery, even with a new battery you will need a tender to keep it tip top. Then the regulator/rectifier. Then the Stator. You want to check your ground s to frame,and your connectors ,and wires for shorts, frays,etc.
Your initial description and subsequent battery replacement make me suspect a wiring issue creating a parasitic draw on the battery that is draining it. Fuse box and multimeter time and not as scary as it sounds. Watch The idea is easily translated to the fewer circuits of a motorcycle. You can then eliminate everything healthy and hopefully identify the culprit circuit and/or component. If it all checks out then I would suspect the reg/rec which is warm with the engine running (ditching excess generated power) but should cool on switch off unless itself shorting out......and which would likely reveal itself as the problem circuit.
Sorry the reg/rec was warm while the bike was running, i forgot to edit that. But thank you Thank you
I hate electrical gremlins too because unless it’s sparking you can’t see them! It is not impossible for the 2nd battery to be defective but you just need to test systematically as you seem to be doing. I have just seen you on the Tiger site and don’t dissent from the contributors there.
I agree with @Callumity a systematic approach will provide a better resolution to your problem, just for comparison my T300 lasts nearly 3 months before it needs the battery charging, even though the clock is on permenantly.
Scotty Dog. First welcome to the Family. I tend to go along the lines OldYam was suggesting rectifier component failure. Hope its not the CDI. But check you don't have a short there somewhere like a split wire tatty joint. And you do sometimes get a duff battery. Stick with it and you will get there. Regards Joe.
Thats why we left it on the bench to see if it drops I shant, i joined 4 tiger/triumph sites. lol. Blimey, yes it is painful but were taking it carefully Thank you
Your first battery was goosed, ok. I think the second is being scrutinised perhaps too closely. Do you have power where you keep the bike? If so get an optimate and see how it goes from there.
