2009 Speedmaster Efi Wont Crank Over Just Click

History? how long have you had it, when did problem start, but it could be an ECU issue so diagnostics could be helpful.

 

It sounds pretty ‘dead’ but the actuation of the relays suggests healthy connectivity - not least a spinning motor if you bypass the change over. It also sounds like you have combed the clutch, sidestand and neutral switch cutouts and excluded their influence.

Have you tested for battery voltage at either coil ignition on? If you have none it directly suggests an ECU failure and if you are getting battery voltage but still no spark I would also tend to point to the ECU not chopping power and firing the coils. It is highly unlikely both coils would die simultaneously on a 270 degree motor.

There is no test for the ECUs except by substitution. Know any local owners who help? Otherwise your next punt is a new ECU. If eBay cannot help your cheapest/best new option is TriumpTwinPower
https://www.triumphtwinpower.com/fire-starter-performance-igniter-unit.php
Cheapest = Least expensive not ‘cheap’!

 

I'll bet it turns out to be the battery, irrespective of what your battery is telling you.

 

So am I misreading the inability to accept a jump charge?

 

What is a change over relay and what does it do?

 

A relay is an electrically actuated switch. You can use a light current to connect a powerful one. Think amps not volts or volume v. speed of flow, if that helps.
Most bikes use a light handlebar current from the starter button to energise the heavy starter current via a relay. Part of the same circuit often then uses another relay to switch off the ‘always on’ headlight to provide max power to the starter motor. At the basic level all relays are ‘changeover’ but there are variations in configuration, type, purpose etc.

 

TVM but I was asking specifically what the change over relay is/does wrt the starter circuit. Never heard of it in that context so was wondering what the OP meant by "shorting the change over relay" and then pressing the button spins the motor. Is the Speedmaster starting circuit completely different to "normal" where the starter button energises the starter relay which powers the starter motor and spins the engine?

 

......with you. No, just the same. Cosmetics aside the only material difference is the 270 degree engine which necessitates 2 ignition coils with ECU map/wiring to match.

 

The fact that if your eliminating the relay and the starter motor spins yet you say you replaced the relay???? its starting to sound like an ECU problem as if the relay is bypassed there is no spark so as i dont know the circuit diagram does the relay also have a feedback to the ECU so if not actuated there is no power to the ignition circuit.

However i would first check the battery state when the starter is engaged as despite the voltage showing it can still fail to deliver the required amps when cranking.

 

When the solenoid clicks i.e. system on load, what is the battery voltage then?

Static voltage off load tells very little of its ability and a dud battery provided with a jump start doesnt always work either.

 

I agree that voltage numbers are misleading to the point of being unhelpful. I always favour jumping off a car battery (engine off) where you get stacks of amps and no chance of a car alternator frying the bike’s circuits. I still remember a friend coasting home on his smoking Matchless having done a quick fix with bell wire that was melting about his knees........

 

On the air-cooled Bonnys the ECU will not attempt a start if the voltage (at the time of starter activation) is less than 12.6v. So when attempting the start the voltage will dip and if the battery is worn out it will dip to 6v or even less.

I concur with others that a known good car battery and quality jumper cables are what's needed. If it starts with that lot you know it's the battery.

 

Are you sure that's when cranking? Sounds more like static voltage tbh because when cranking the voltage will go down to around 10v on any fully charged battery. Less than 10v is definitely a problem though.

 

I'm sure that the figure of 12.6v is in the ECU; however can't confirm whether that is static voltage or when attempting to crank. The reason why I'm being careful with my answer is that from bitter personal experience I had battery trouble on my 2010 T100. It would show static 12.6/7v which should be enough, but under load (when attempting to use the starter motor) the voltage would drop to something like 6v which obviously meant the battery was buggered. Bought a new one, charged it up and never had any further problems.

 

Do you know anyone with a bike who you can borrow their battery off and put it in your bike ? The reason I'm saying that is because with your bike being 10/11 years old, it could be at the end of life of it's second battery.
Or as said, link up to a car battery.

 

Hi Andy, it's been my experience with bike batteries that because they are so small they don't last anywhere near that of an average car battery. Even with regular charging I reckon on changing a bike battery every 4 yrs-ish.