I have a 2004 Sprint 955i RS with the single swing arm set up. I have own the bike for the last 5 years with only a few minor issues. All in all it has been a great bike! Initial problem: I was riding home the other week and the instrument display started to blinked on and off and then went out. After investigation I found a wire (red) off a connector was frayed and only a few strands still connecting the wire. The wire had been rubbing against the frame. Shorting it out as well as my instrument panel. The plug (connector) that comes off the main wiring harness on the right side, all the way forward on the frame (it is right by the fan plug). I used a butt connector and heat shrink to fix it and taped the wires back up. Then I tie strapped the cable to the wiring hardness to keep it away from the frame. I hooked the bike up to my computer (ECU Tune) and cleared the code (the code I believe was: P1552 - cooling fan error code) and everything appeared to be ok. I checked out the cooling fan and found no issues and with the bike hooked up to the ECU Tune program I tested the fan and it stated that there were not faults found. The bike started up and all seemed well after a short ride to fill up the tank. Current problem: Sunday I broke down on a ride. The display just went blank and about a quarter mile later the bike just quit. I tried to start it but there was nothing. After about 45 minutes (waiting for help) the bike turned over a couple of time but the battery did not have the charge to start it. I then jumped the bike, it started but quit after I got it in gear and road it about 3 yards down the road. When I got home I hooked up the OBDII, I got 8 error codes: P0351, P0352, P0353, P1351, P1352, 1353, P0230 and P1231. Checking the ignition coils according to the shop manual, the coils should read 8 ohms. I got 1.2 ohms from the ECU terminals (2H1, 2H2, 2H4) to the Main power relay (pin 8). I then took the tank and air-box off and read each coil individually and got the same 1.2 ohms for all three coils. I checked for grounds and none were found. I find it hard to believe that all the coils would go out and that they would all read the same. Can this happen? That is, all the coils going out at the same time? I checked the fuel pump circuit and could not find a fault. I found the 30 amp main fuse was melted, yes melted. After I put everything back together and changed the fuse. I put the battery on a battery tender (it read 11.5 VDC). I hooked up the computer again and cleared the codes and did the limited diagnostic test that the ECU Tune program allows. All came back no faults. With only 11.5 volt, I know the bike will not start so I again jumped the bike. It idled just fine but after only a couple of minutes the main 30 amp fuse started to get hot to the touch. I stopped the bike. I did replace the battery about a month ago. I know there are still things I need to check, the charging system (alternator and rectifier). I will take the battery in and have it checked. I have not checked continuity to ground at the main fuse terminal with the key in the run position. All checks that have been done to this point have been with the battery disconnected and key in the off position. Anyone have anything similar happen or anyone have info as where you think I should go from here? Any help will be appreciated!!! R/Paul
The instrument panel blanking out is the first indication of a failed generating system, once the voltage drops below a threshold - the generating system failure was then proven by fact you were unable to crank (battery discharged) plus all those error codes from the system voltage being low. You mentioned Fuse was melted, it could be as simple as that (read on for more on that ........) First check Fuse 11 - that is fuse that is between the R/R and the battery Next, check the stator - Set your meter to read resistance (ohms) Leave ignition off, disconnect the stator; Read between any ONE of the three terminals on the end going back into the stator, to engine ground. This should be 'open' (infinite resistance); if you get 'short' (zero or very low resistance) then stator is fried - at this point you can pull the cover to confirm. If the stator is good - and the fuse was good - (& assuming no visible wiring/connectors issue) then by default the R/R MUST be bad If stator checks out and you have a good fused circuit in play, measure the voltage across the battery - you should get at least mid-13's once bike is started. If you do, R/R must be good and you can focus on the following part. If voltage is in the 12.x range with engine running then R/R is bad (again assuming you have validated the stator and Fuse are good) When you say the Fuse was 'melted' - do you mean the plastic or the fusable link inside? (Edit I just saw your additional comments in the other thread - so it is definitely a Fuse Socket connection issue causing it to melt as it is thermal issue - I see also that @Wishbone made that same deduction) Are you talking about Fuse 2 or Fuse 11? It is not uncommon for the fuse body (the plastic) to melt on these systems - that is not actually caused by an over-current situation but because there is poor electrical contact between the Fuse and the Fuse Terminal Sockets - even a modest resistance at the amount of current that is normal through that Fuse, is enough to generate quite a bit of heat. Your best bet is really to bypass that Fuse with an external one. If Fuse 11, then the best method is just to wire your R/R directly to the battery terminals - use a Fuse on the Positive Line and the negative can go directly to the battery. If Fuse 2 is the problem then you will have to connect up an external Fuse (that one is a little trickier to accomplish) Good Luck! p.s. Tip for checking voltage at a fuse without having to remove it ,,,,,, Leave the Black probe on the negative and touch the red probe to the metal tabs on top of the fuse. When you fuse is good, you should read same voltage on both terminals.
p.p.s. I think the red wire was a red herring (no pun intended!!!) - although clearly needed attention regardless There aren't actually that many red wires in the system - there is one that is the tach signal, between the ECU and the Instrument connector; and one circuit that connects between the Left Bar Switch Connector, the Key-Switch and the Fuse Panel (note all these references are on the main harness side of any connectors) The instruments blanking is DEFINITELY an indication that the system voltage was too low and not charging, whether that be from component failure or simply the fuse. Given that is was physically the plastic melted you may be lucky and simply need to bypass the fuse, and the charging components are actually still OK
D’Ecosse, Thank you for your info and instruction! It is appreciated! It is fuse 2 and will stop by the cycle shop tomorrow on the way home from work to pickup the needed wire, fuse holder and fuses to make that modification. I will also do the checks you suggested. My wife’s birthday was today so it would not have gone over well had I spent the evening working on my bike. I’ll be back on when I get my reading and hopefully a cause. Thanks again! Glad your out there!
With fuse 2 you would lose ignition & lights: Fuse 11 would give you no charging .... It sounded more like fuse 11 issue - but not uncommon to see both exhibit that issue It still running when speedo blanked that would indicate fuse 11 - or failed charging system
On a side note,-; can you clean the terminals on these fuse box to save rewiring or check connections to the fuse box, or is this a more complicated issue?
I think i t's less that they are oxidized and more the factor that they are just not tight enough making adequate force against the fuse blades - but combination of both really. You could certainly try to improve the connectivity with a contact enhancer and perhaps a gentle'squeeze' on the socket, but it perhaps better to just replace. Unfortunately I have not been able to find a source for replacement terminals for the Triumph Fuse Boxes which would be an ideal solution.
Rodger that, fuse 11 because it was running with the speedo blanked until the bike ran out of battery charge.
I am going to take a look at it and see. If it cleans up and I can get a good contact across the blades. I’ll run is and see if it heats up. That will be the test whether I bypass the fuse box or not. Thanks for your help. Be leaving work soon and hope to have a cause in a few hours.
So Fuse 11 much easier to bypass - just connect new wires and fuse to the output of the R/R (at its 4-way output connector) direct to the battery and ignore the wires to OEM fuse box off that 4-way on the main harness side. You don't even have to cut your OEM wiring harness. Just pull the actual fuse in the fuse box 11 and that connector will now be inactive. You will actually get improved charging voltage from this connection
I am going to take a look at it and see. If it cleans up and I can get a good contact across the blades. I’ll run is and see if it heats up. That will be the test whether I bypass the fuse box or not. Thanks for your help. Be leaving work soon and hope to have a cause in a few hours. Well, I cleaned up the fuse blades and tighten up the fuse clip. - I took the alternator connector apart and got infinity to ground on all three leads. - Unplugged the rectifier connector to the battery and checked everything to ground and checked the connectors for any damage, non found. - Connected everything back together, put the tank back on. - I measured the battery prior to starting and got 12.8VDC. - The bike fired right up and the voltage jumped up to 14.3VDC then settled out at 13.2 after running for a few minuted and slowly revving the engine up to 5k and back a few times. - When the engine heated up and the fan came on the voltage was at 12.7VDC and when the fan cycled off the voltage went back to 13.2VDC. - I took the engine off idle to 2k and held it there until the volts settled at 14.5VDC. - Then repeated that at 5K it settled at 14.2VDC. - I checked the fuse periodically and it did not get hot, stayed cool to the touch. - then I found a leak in the at the quick disconnect, looks like I nicked the gasket during this process and will get another tomorrow. - I will go over all the connections again and get it ready for a road test. Are the numbers quoted above satisfactory? And what are your thoughts? R/Paul
Being new I attached this to a post above and though I would repost as to what I accomplished last evening. - I cleaned up the fuse blades and tighten up the fuse clip. - I took the alternator connector apart and got infinity to ground on all three leads. - Unplugged the rectifier connector to the battery and checked everything to ground and checked the connectors for any damage, non found. - Connected everything back together, put the tank back on. - I measured the battery prior to starting and got 12.8VDC. - The bike fired right up and the voltage jumped up to 14.3VDC then settled out at 13.2 after running for a few minuted and slowly revving the engine up to 5k and back a few times. - When the engine heated up and the fan came on the voltage was at 12.7VDC and when the fan cycled off the voltage went back to 13.2VDC. - I took the engine off idle to 2k and held it there until the volts settled at 14.5VDC. - Then repeated that at 5K it settled at 14.2VDC. - I checked the fuse periodically and it did not get hot, stayed cool to the touch. - then I found a leak in the at the quick disconnect, looks like I nicked the gasket during this process and will get another tomorrow. - I will go over all the connections again and get it ready for a road test. Are the numbers quoted above satisfactory? And what are your thoughts? R/Paul
Hi, I am having a similar fuse heating up and bike stopping with my 2002 Speed Triple, my fuse is the main ignition 10 amp fuse. I also have the display erratically working, and the speedo stops working too. Please let me know if you resolve this as it may also help me with my problem, good luck and stay safe!!
