Front Sprocket Nut On My Centennial

I have also found the front sprocket nut sometimes takes a lot of effort to remove. It can be more difficult than the single sided swingarm rear wheel nut even though it requires less torque at 132Nm (rear wheel nut is 146Nm). And it lets go suddenly so best to wear some heavy gloves to avoid grazed knuckles if you are using a breaker bar. Well done for persevering.

 

Been there done that. THATS WHY I GO TO THE DEALER THESE DAYS

 

Milwaukee 18v impact driver, makes light work of anything on the bike and bolts on the SUV at 400+nm. Not as cheap as a piece of tubing though!
Last time I changed the front sprocket on the ZZR, which was TIGHT, I positioned the bike with the brake lever directly over the ground anchor and ratchet strapped it down enough to lock the wheel and leave both hands free to tackle the nut.

 

Every time I remove the rear wheel on a Panigale 1299s, it takes a bit of effort, the torque is 230nm. I always use an impact gun to remove anything over 150nm, but never ever use it to re-torque them. It sounds like that sprocket nut has either been vastly overtightened, or locktight was used. Glad you got it removed ok with no damage.

 

Instead of using the back brake to stop the wheel rotating why not shove a goodly sized piece of timber through the back wheel, perhaps not with traditional spoked wheels though. A rattle gun is the best way to go.

@Iceman 230Nm that is incredible, you must have a very special torque wrench. My old Norbar only goes up to about 150Nm

 

Hi Baza, the larger one I have is a Lazer that goes up to 340Nm.

 

Now you're torquing

 

That’s incredible, it must have a fairly long handle. Don’t think I’ve got sufficient muscle to handle a beast like that.

 

This is a picture of the retaining nut with a 230nm torque on the Ducati 1299s Panigale. The battery-powered impact gun does not have enough torque to remove it, the air impact gun has it removed in seconds. Having the right Ducati tools for removing wheels is essential, especially for the front wheel spindle.

 

It’s easier than you might think. My 3/4” drive goes up to 395nm and is, near as damm it, 3ft long which obviously makes applying big torque numbers easier, plus axle nuts are, usually, dead easy to get to so you can use body weight to your advantage.
The Milwaukee has 950nm available so it’s not even trying with anything on the bikes.