Torque Wrench > Useful Torque Range??

To cover the full range of torque setting requirements on the bike you’ll probably require 2 wrenches from, say, 5 to 110nm. I have Halfords “Professional” 3/8” drive, 8-60nm, a Williams 1/2” drive 20-140nm and a brand new Draper 3/4” drive 70-395nm I won on Ebay for £15 from a woman in Wales who was selling off her husbands entire garage contents after he buggered off with a fancy woman!
I’ve only used the 3/4 a couple of times on the SUV.
You can pay £hundreds for fancy electronic wrenches from premium brands but totally unnecessary IMO unless you’re in the trade and use on everyday.
A good tip if you don’t have a torque wrench to hand is tighten until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn……….






………JUST KIDDING!

 

I have 2 torque wrenches, one that goes from 60nm to 200nm 3/8 that does large bolts/nuts eg wheel nuts etc. The other is from 10 to 60nm 1/4 that does all of the smaller stuff, eg fork clamps. That one is a Halfords Professional and after over 15 years of general use is still in spec.

 

If only buying one, then I'd go for a 3/8ths Norbar.
Return it to zero after every use and it will last you years

 

Here you go.....

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/norb...et-dual-scale-torque-wrench-12-60nm-965774680

I have others, above and below this range, but this is probably the most regularly used.

 

I’ve two.
An expensive certified 10-60lb/ft for critical engine parts and brakes etc and another that goes up to 100Ib/ft.for the heavy duty stuff (wheel spindle bolts and sprocket nut/s) so as not to strain the other one

 

For spark plugs, sump plugs etc, I tend to do it by feel. One thing to remember if you use any sort of grease on the threads, you need to back off the torque setting. Also, make sure the threads are clean as that can also affect it.

 

Spark plugs are one of the easiest things to over tighten in an alloy head and can be one of the most costly and time consuming to repair when it all goes a bit Pete Tong.
I always do used plugs by feel now. The initial torque setting for new plugs is to compress and seat the washer which makes the “feel” method more problematic. This is for standard seat plugs of course, not tapered.

 

I would consider a digital torque wrench, take the Clarke Pro Range as an example, they do an electronic version in 3/8ths and 1/2 inch, the 3/8ths one covers a range from 10 to 135 NM, the 1/2 inch covers 20 to 200 NM, both read in all configurations. You can easily use a 1/2 inch socket with a 3/8th torque wrench by using a 1/2 inch to 3/8ths adapter, the electronic wrench accounts for the adapter so no need to manually adjust the wrench. The 3/8th model retails at £106.68, and the 1/2 inch drive costs £107.98, these are available from Machine Mart. Personally, I have 4 different torque wrenches, these are 3/8ths Snap On - 1/2 inch Facom - Clarke 3/8ths digital, and a 1/2 inch Laser that goes up to 340 NM, useful on the rear wheel of the Ducati range. I intend to buy a 1/4 inch digital wrench in a few weeks time, as these offer a range from 3 to 30 NM, primarily for small engine work. The advantage of a digital wrench is the audible sound and warning light when the torque value is reached, and just prior to this, you get an amber light warning that the value is nearing the setting. These features are ideal for those new to using torque wrenches, and for experience as well. Over time, you get a feel for when fastenings are reaching the right torque. Good luck with whatever one you choose and happy spannering.

 

As @Eldon says Norbar are the DBs for torque wrenches just down the road from me at Banbury, unfortunately now owned by SnapOn. I have a 20-100 ft/lbs ½” drive one that I’ve owned for over 50 years and it’s still giving sterling service.

When I bought the Duke in 01 I found that I would need one for the lower ranges but looking at the L twin lump the head bolts could only be attacked with an open ended spanner so I bought a Norbar torque handle which accepts various end fittings, open ended, ring, open ring and ratchet drives. Depending on which way round you fit the end fitting you can also measure torque in an anti-clockwise direction. Because there is a range overlap on the two wrenches it enabled me to check my original wrench and it’s still reading true.

Regarding what size drive to get ½”, ⅜” or ¼” I would always go for ½” on the basis that you can always step the drive size down using an adapter which are cheap and easily obtained. I just feel more comfortable with the ½” drive when you are looking at torque at the high end of the range.

 

I would start with what you intend to do and go from there, sorry if that's stating the obvious.

The only times I have stripped a thread or over tightened is when using a torque wrench. In my opinion, anything less than about 20nm is getting into dangerous territory. Personally, and feel free to shoot me down, but in these cases unless it has a gasket, distortion risk or some other need for very even torque, I use thread locker and sympathy.

 

I find lower torque settings easier to judge by hand than higher settings. When refitting wheels to the SUV I never used a torque wrench, instead just giving a good pull on the wheel brace, until I had two studs sheer off. They didn’t actually “snap” off but just failed to tighten and just fell off, obviously weakened over the years. After replacing them I decided to use a torque wrench to the 76lb/ft setting in the book and was surprised how relatively easy it was. It’s hard to say what figure they were when doing them by feel but I reckon they must’ve been close to 100lb/ft.

 

I’m surprised at 76 lb/ft. My X3 is 130Nm which in old money is 95lb/ft and there are five bolts per wheel.

You live and learn, I’ve always referred to old money torque as foot pounds but I’m wrong it’s pounds feet. And you should never use the forward slash to separate the two unit names as it is really a division symbol, a hyphen is more appropriate.

 

The wheels are 6 stud and the 76lb/ft spec is for alloy wheels. If steel wheels are fitted the spec is 105lb/ft. Both types of wheel use different nuts with different seats. The alloys are regarded as being stronger than the steels and preferred by those who go off roading.

 

6 stud, wow, obviously expecting them to receive some punishment. Mine are ally, don’t think I’ve ever seen one with steel wheels. Just wondering about the steel/ally torque differential, do you think it might be to do with the heat and resultant thermal expansion the two different materials will be picking up from the brake discs?

 

Possibly, given aluminium has a coefficient of expansion around twice that of steel, plus the alloy wheels are much thicker than the steel wheels. I’ve never come across the steel wheels so I’ve no idea what they weigh but the alloys (16 x 8J) are heavy!

 

Buying a torque wrench is not a final solution. You will need to consider whether you are using a thread lube or thread lock and the effect that this will have on the fixing you are attacking.