Hey Manin. Thanks for your input. I have a complete parts manual, and the workshop manual on it’s way! It looks like the cam gears need to be pulled from the cam shafts, and then the shafts can be removed by sliding out to the drive side now that the LH casing has been removed. On a footnote, the shells in the big end, and the journals on the crank look perfect! I will still replace the shells, rings etc on rebuild...
A few ideas, if the camshaft lobes are ok and you are going to reuse them leave them in the cases, if not then buy the correct puller and remove the gears to be able to slide cams out. As for refitting the cam gears as they are a very tight fit you can use blocks of wood to rest the l/h side of cams so you can tap on the gears and it also helps if you warm the gears up before fitting or the other option is to use emery paper on the inside of the gears until they are a push fit.
Thanks again Martin. I have now received the correct socket for the LH cam gear nut (what a very odd size - 1.1 inch = 28 mm!), and as the crankcases need replacing, they do indeed need to be removed… The corrosion in the lower part of this bike is a nightmare: lower engine mounting shaft and spacers totally seized in frame, spacers and crankcases; frame pitted, rust on one part of rims, and even the RH fork to spindle clamp still requires work (and heat) to remove it fully. Had I seen/realised just how bad it was, I probably should have driven away or dumped en route home!! Not giving up now though..!
OK. Camshafts out much easier than I expected. Piston and oil rings removed from pistons - they were stuck in the grooves so came out in many pieces Have just managed to remove the sludge trap screw from the crank, with massive difficulty! Bought 12 mm screwdriver bits for a manual impact driver - no go. Air pressure impact gun - no go. Weld a washer and nut onto the top of the screw - no go! Finally drilled a 10mm dia hole into the screw and used a hand LH stud extractor - success! Next stage is cleaning the aluminium engine parts and iron barrel, then the frame and swinging arm… Almost beginning to be good fun...
Next obstacle… Now that the sludge trap screw has been removed, and the bolt in the crank which locks the sludge tube in place, it should pull out using a hook quite simply? Nope. Pull as I may, it doesn’t want to play. Anyone have any ideas/tips how to get the tube out? Thanks for any help...
Use a 5/8th unc tap to cut a thread into the tube and then screw in a 5/8th unc bolt with a nut and washer on the bolt to jack the tube out.
Now, why didn’t I think of that??!! I used an EZ out to get the sludge trap cap out as well… Just need a bigger one - on order now. Thank you so much!
Hi.I’ve looked everywhere for an EZ out that is big enough for the sludge tube… Any ideas where I can get one? Cheers
Found this in the end… £4.99, and the tube was out in less than a minute! hallho Double Head Pipe Screw Extractor, Water Pipe, Damaged Screws, Broken Slots, Removal Tool for 1/2 Inch and 3/4 Inch Hoses, Valve Tap Thanks for your help!!!
perfect. i think i bought mine at an american department store decades ago, and have never used it for anything else. worked great, and doesnt destroy the tube. wbenyou put the plug back, dont stake the crank cheek. put the punch mark on the plug. occasionally cranks will fail at a crack that originates at that punch mark.
