Scrambler 1200 Alternator Wiring Fault /burnt Out

Adding on from my previous post ,trying to find the regulator so i could check system , i have finaly sussed the issue , after it broke down on me .
I had scoped the crank sensor earlier ,had a reasonable wave pattern but wasnt completly satified it was good as it looked a bit ragerty ,but there was a signal and a 4v output which for cranking ,is good ,but injectors or coils not getting a signal .

Checking the stator to ground , there was continuity , should not be so , So took off the stator from engine , still had continuity to ground , bloody odd !. Stripped out the wiring that runs behind the gearbox sprocket and wiring to stator and crank sensor all crispy and burnt ,mystery finaly solved .
New rotor is over £400 and i think not changing the regulator rectifier too , would bite me on the ass later

Bike is 2 and half years old 7000 miles ,seems a bit crap this occuring , is this a known issue or a recall item for triumph , or just my very bad luck .
Anyone else had or seen this
Glad this did not happen on euro trip this year .

 

No recalls on this fault ,so bit the bullet and ordered new stator which comes complete with crank sensor and wireing £300 ,not as bad as i feared .

Rectifier is toast too ,so being reserching into what best to replace with .

The original is a shindengen fh 020 aa mosfet , a great normally reliable bit of kit , but i fear because of location completly being boxed in behind the engine with no airflow , its an accident waiting to happen again .

After much research into this i am going to upgrade it too a shindengen sh847 which is a series type as opposed to shunt of the Shindengen 020 AA original.
Not cheap £200 ,but i dont want to be always worrying is it going to let me down again .

The shunt type have the stator on max power all the time ,and regulates it down by shunting excess to earth This can build up a lot of heat in stator and reg .

Series Type only switches on the stator when current rerquired , so charging system is under a lot less stress and heat buildup.

Scrambler has a max output of 33 amps , the Shindengen 775 series max is 35 , so opting for the 50 amp 847 ,which will allow a good amount of leeway, its a wee bit larger .

Im still loathed to put it back in the stuffy box at the back of the engine but to mount it in a more airy location . Think i will settle on engine frame below swingarm ,there isnt many places to put it .Trialed it with some cable ties ,to see how it might fit ,or i could just cut more ventalation holes in the boxing in panel .

There are loads of cheap reg recs knock offs on amazon and ebay ,so buyers beware , go for genuine only .

 

Your right there ,it has to share the same small space as the abs ECU too.
I love the analogy of the pin the tail on the donkey lol

 

cable runs in a plastic channel just behind sprocket ,and was still securely inside it , did find a sharp bit of casting on the engine block ,which could have chaffed it ,or it might have been made when it shorted to the case , guess i will never know ,it doesnt seem to be a common fail point .

Bike had been ideling stationary for 5 mins just before it cut out on me and the heated grips were on , regulator could have overheated and lost control of current and everthing got cooked .

New rotor 300£ ,regulator £200 ,Dont want this happening again .
Extra insulation for cabling .
I got a piece of 5mm aluminium for a heat sink and connected it too frame tube which had a couple of spare bolt holes ,and wired a 30 amp resettable fuse to protect the system . Plenty of fresh air there to keep it cool , it should be out of the way of dirt being flung off the rear wheel , but may fit a guard .

Took the opportunity to do my valve clearances whilst it was all in bits , some where just on the limit ,so reshimmed . Its a doddle to do as you only have to take off two 8 mm bolts and the cam followers lift off .
Also took the paint off the cam cover and polished it up ,to match the engine casings previously polished .