2010 Tiger 1050 ABS I am confused about how much clutch drag...if any? As I fiddle and fettle with my clutch: when in neutral should there be any clutch drag at all? Should the rear wheel move? When the clutch lever is pulled in, and first is selected, should there be NO drive until the clutch is [begun] to be released? Same with second etc... I have got rid of any slack in the clutch cable adjuster at the engine. I am playing with the lever adjustment rotator; winding it in or out, to remove any drag in neutral. If I can get the wheel still in neutral, as soon as I select first (lever fully pulled) there is quite some "drive", even though I haven't released the clutch yet. I would have thought(?) that if I haven't yet released the clutch...why is there drive at the wheel? Ultimately I am trying to remedy a "sticky gear change".... Any thoughts?
Thanks, I am in the middle of an oil change, just so I know, for sure, that the right oil is in it (not had it long and oil changed by previous owner). Do you know what the drag should be? Or simply be none at all whenever the clutch lever is pulled fully?
When the oil is cold , there will be more drag than when the oil is hot ! Drag will vary bike to bike , but there shouldn't be much.
You might get the desired effect you're looking for by messing with the clutch play but if you don't have enough, it'll slip and burn.
I am editing this thread as I am going to incorporate related issues. I am suffering from the [dreaded?] sticky clutch...on the 1050 Tiger - which is why I was adjusting the clutch drag above, but I think there is more of an issue than just "cable adjustment". In summary: I think/feel that the clutch isn’t right…it’s difficult, especially when warm, to engage some gears, and only on some occasions. 2 to 3 mostly. And not every time. I have adjusted the clutch cable, both at the engine - with no slack there now. I have played with the slack adjustment at the lever… I have replaced/ensured the oil is new and correct. (Motul 10/40 semi) Gear shifts are initially fine, but seem to get worse as engine heats up. "Worse" = difficult to shift the gear lever. Either it is hard to move, or doesn't move at all. Releasing the lever and trying again gets it "shifted". But it is giving me a sore left toe! I am happy to consider a clutch pack. Again, this current one could well be 12 years old…? There is no record of a clutch replacement in the fairly thorough service history. So that’s where I’ll consider going next. I believe I need: A clutch pack Springs 3 gaskets Gasket seal? Do I need to drain the oil? The oil is "new"; can I reuse it? Clutch pack recommendations, advice, tales of comfort and woe etc all welcome!
You need to measure the clutch stack height and that will tell you if it needs replacing. I would remove the clutch and measure everything including the springs, plus check the plates to see if they are warped or are bluing before buying anything. It could be running some engine flush through it and adjusting it correctly may cure it.
Drain the oil into a clean container and you can reuse it. You'll need a new clutch cover gasket. It's probably the metal plates which are warped. Probably have to go genuine. In which case try Fowlers.
Thank you! What determines whether i should go genuine? Out of interest, I have just seen, that these ones (Wemoto) are friction plates only...I guess I need the whole stack (potentially).
hmmm...this is causing some "frustratement"! It seems that while "friction plate" kits are readily available...the steel drive plates are less so! I am going to get the cover off and look at them drive plates...see if they need replacing I can see now why that may indeed mean Fowlers....
You should not need to drain the oil. Have a look at the dipstick and it's a long mutha which goes down into the sump below the clutch cover.
Thanks @TRIPLE X ; I thought/hoped that, especially as it'll be leant over as well! A couple of general questions for this "process"... Do I need actual gaskets, or can/do I use gasket seal - or both! I believe I need 3 gaskets (if using). I understand that the friction plates are different sizes, with the first and last being thicker. Are the steel drive plates all the same, or differ as well? I have read lots about the "clutch pull rod" may need to be modified: I believe the mod is a slight flattening of the shank (blue arrow)...or is there an upgraded part available? The reason for the mod/upgrade being that the sticky clutch, which may be caused by: lack of oil getting between the plates, warped drive plates, or oil not getting past the rod - and a flat edge allows the oil to pass. I am a little disheartened that my "new" bike is suffering in this way, if I am honest...nothing detrimental came up at test ride...however I feel the bike is in excellent shape - except for this, and I got it for a sterling price, so do not particularly mind the £150 or so to sort the clutch if needed - and of course the thrill of doing it myself! (with yours help of course )....
Friction plates kits are more readily available as it's usually those that wear out. Check the steel plates for warpage with a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass and feeler gauges. No point in changing them if they're OK. As already said, drag will vary from bike to bike but, with a hot engine (off) you should be able the turn the back wheel quite easily by hand in 1st gear and the clutch in. A cold engine will be much harder bordering on impossible.
That's a really good diagnostic for drag, thanks @Pegscraper ! I will also be checking the warpage of the steel plates... My "eager learner, non mechanic" mind tells me the following summary - there are two areas, in the main, that effect the clutch... 1 is slippage... 2 is stickage... Slippage is likely due to worn friction plates... Stickage is due to lack of oil (whether that be no friction plate soaking, tight pins etc), or warped drive plates..
The main reason is poor adjustment. You need to check and measure everything before assuming something needs replacing. For example the springs could be worn and not pushing out enough. Something could be loose. Are you sure the clutch cable is moving freely? Does it need oiling? My Speed Triple was slipping the last time I was on it. I made a small adjustment on the cable where it is attached to the clutch cover and problem cured. I also lubricated the cables and all is now good.
continues thanks... I have been for a ride out. Not sure if it was the correct "technique", but while cold, i had it in first (engine off) clutch released...and could not roll forwards. Upon my return, engine hot...same again, still couldn't roll forwards... As it happens though, regardless...the whole ride out was far smoother today on the whole...it was a joy to ride! But I do heed the advice re check, check, and check again....believe me, I don't want to spend any money of I don't have to!
The pull rod you have highlighted in the picture has been modified. It now has a swirl machined into it to allow more oil to get through into the clutch pack. Fitted one along with new frinction plates to my speed triple as clutch was sticking especially when warm.
