Any helpful hints on debadging the tank on a Speedmaster? My 2018 is going in for paint. Just the tank. The painter gave me a substantial discount on the price If I would pull and debadge the tank. Pulling the tank was pretty straightforward, no worries there. I didn't want to use my heat gun for fear of bubbling the original paint or damaging the emblem. I applied a hair dryer set on high to the knee pads and they peeled off pretty quickly (they were aftermarket that I applied). The emblems are another story. I applied the heat for several minutes. They are not budging.
Nail varnish remover , eucalyptus oil , tea tree oil ethanol or glycol ?? Bit of heat and prise with a plastic prise bit , application of eucalyptus or tea tree oil doesn't affect the paint , be wary with varnish remover ! Alcohol in its various forms shouldn't affect paint either , but any of above may affect the badges ?!?! Otherwise ???
Thanks! I did find a helpful video. Apply heat (this guy used a hair dryer too for the same reasons). Then, use dental floss, doubled and twisted, in a sawing motion along the adhesive backing. He recommended (and demonstrated) doing so with the tank bolted on the frame as the sawing motion needs to be pretty aggressive and you would be shoving the tank around on a work bench. I'll report on its effectiveness
I've used a similar method to remove fork and other reflectors that are on with adhesive, @Fork Lock. I use a hair dryer but rather than dental floss I use stout fishing line. Good luck with the removals and hope that paint job goes well. We'd love to see a photo when you're done.
I know some people like the red/black combo. I don't. I always thought it looked like the bike was assembled from leftover parts. Maybe it's an OCD thing. I bought it because the price was right (2018 leftover) and it was the only Speedmaster on the floor. Always figured on having it painted, but I thought I'd give it some time to see if the original paint scheme might grow on me - it's been a year - it hasn't. Nothing fancy going on here. I have this: I'm going for this:
That's gonna look real nice and anyway a change is as good as rest they say, your bike your way works for me. As for badges I'm with Sandy bit of heat and fishing line should do the trick, then apply the other ingredients mentioned to remove the remaining glue etc.
I'm reminded of a tip I got from the Service Manager at my local Triumph dealer (Arizona Kawasaki--KTM--Triumph). He's a stickler for detailing vehicles. When I told him I used Gu Gone to remove remaining adhesive after removing things like badges or reflectors, he said that he had a better way--lighter fluid. Yes, you read that correctly. Lighter fluid! I asked him a bunch of questions since it seemed like a rather odd and somewhat scary proposition. He instructed me to put a very small amount on a rag, wipe the sticky bits, then follow that up with wiping the area with a wet rag to clean off the lighter fluid. I have to say, after trying it the first time several years ago, I'm sold. It works beautifully. I have a small container of lighter fluid that has a very small spout. I put just the smallest amount I think might do the trick on a rag and it take the adhesive right off! I then make certain that I've removed all traces of the lighter fluid. It works WAY better than the Gu Gone I was using or any of the other things I've used previously. I've only used this lighter fluid method on regular paint (not matte paint) and can't remember using it on chrome although I think I have. But I'll let you know how it works on chrome because I'm going to remove the reflectors from my new Fat Boy this weekend and they are all adhered to chrome parts. The first time I tried it I used it on an unobtrusive area of my bike because even with the service manager's reassurance that it wouldn't harm the paint, I still felt a bit uneasy. No problems at all. Has anyone else tried this?? This is what I use. This photo is just to show you the spout on this particular product. It's really helpful in putting just a small amount on the rag.
Hi @Sandi T , lighter fluids are highly refined top end of the oil spectrum when the raw oils are distilled , so it's got very small very active molecular properties, similar to the plant based Eucalyptus oil ! Eucalypt tree's burn very hot because of this ... Sometimes as hot as 1200/1600°c
Very interesting info, @capt! In light of the similarities between lighter fluid and eucalyptus oil, do you think the eucalyptus oil would work to remove adhesive type stuff?? It would certainly smelll better. I'm feeling a mini-science experiment coming on for the reflector removal. But I already have the lighter fluid and I'll have to make a trip to the store for the eucalyptus oil if I want to experiment.
I use eucalyptus oil for most glue removal job's . A dry rag or tissue is all that is needed to clean after using the oil ! Water and a tiny amount of detergent if you insisted on a spotless gleaming finish... ! It is also a very strong antibacterial agent ! If you swap different antibacterial agent's , you get a much cleaner germ free kitchen or bathroom bench tops and sink's , plus for most people it's a much nicer smelling product than the chemical options we pay big money for ! Funny how Alcohol became the best choice for hand sterilization during Covid !! Eucalyptus and teetree/teatree oil's also became more popular , teetree is the proper name it comes from a eucalypt known to live in swampy or wetter than average areas of Australia.
Thanks, @capt! So to remove adhesive stickies should I look for tea tree oil or eucalyptus oil or either one? it sounds like they are just the same thing with different names if I’m understanding correctly.
They are similar , teetree oil doesn't have as strong a smell. They would have the same active constituents ? But the (missing the right word) emollient (smell) isn't there or as strong.
Not happening. Heat and dental floss - Nope Heat and 60# test fishing line - Nope Heat and braided steel fishing leader - Nope Heat and braided guitar string - Nope NOTHING works! Sawed on the damned things for 25 - 30 minutes, reheating every few minutes until I developed cuts on my fingers where I was holding the various types of line. Yes, I was wearing gloves. Still got cuts. made ZERO progress! I don't know if lighter fluid would soften the adhesive. I know it works on residual glue. I have used it for that, but I'm not keen on pouring lighter fluid on my bike, trying to get it in behind the emblems. I called the painter and left a message. If I carefully mask around the emblem (although I hate doing it this way) can he work around the emblems? Awaiting his response.
It's a 2018. They have to be glued on, right? There are no screws on the emblems, at least none that are visible. I'd be shocked if they were on there by any other means.
