Let's gather our collective successful upgrades to give others an understanding of what works. We make performance upgrades to allow our bikes to run at their optimum while also easing the burden on our engines by removing all the constraints and allowing a cooler, free flowing, longer living engine. My upgrades: 2005 Bonneville T100 (air cooled, carb) AIS removed Air box baffle removed Dunstall silencers with baffles Bellmouth air intake Nology ignition coil NGK Iridium spark plugs Carb - 135 Main, 40 Pilot, 1 Shim, 2.5 turns Note: I am currently working on these upgrades. The carb settings are in question as they are only taken from a collection of info gleaned from this forum.
You do realize that Iridium plugs are not a performance upgrade just better for longevity, slight airflow improvements needing jet upgrades will net just a few bhp but only if AFRs are optimum around the 12.8 to 13.2.
I'm not making these changes for performance. The bike is plenty fast for me. I just want to remove the constraints to allow the engine to work easier and last longer. Had to change the pipes so I could hear the engine. That change resulted in a leaner fuel mixture & hotter engine. Since a jet change is necessary, thought I may as well improve the intake also. Had the engine die on me a few times, so I'm replacing the ignition coil. May need to replace the ignition sensor also. I'm hoping someone on this forum can give me some good guidance on the carb settings. It would be nice to get the setup close to right the first time. Not familiar with the term AFR. Please enlighten me. Thanks for your help,
OK the trouble is and this is especially true of carbed engines is that no Two engines will run exactly the same which i why I quoted AFRs as already said Air Fuel Ratio, the only full proof way of setting up this correctly is by using a wideband Lambda sensor in the exhausts and a reader, using someone else jetting will get you close providing their exhaust/intake is exactly the same spec as your own that all it will be close and what your looking for is optimizing your engine running. The cutting out could well be down to a sensor rather than the coil they will usually just go bad and cause a misfire or just not fire.
Yes, I'm aware that I may need to change the sensor. If the engine dies after the coil change I'll replace the sensor. Close is good enough for me. I won't me racing. The factory probably did the AFR thing when they spec'd the carb settings. But like you said, no two engines are the same. So many are just close to the factory's intent. I can live with close.
