03 Speed Triple Oil Pan Replacement

Hi and welcome, if you can take the pan off can you not have it welded even alloy can be done an engineering shop may be able to help

 

Is it leaking around the drain plug they can take a knock bumping kerbs etc but depending on the damage may be repairable
I think a new one is about £300 and a bit of a pain to change but doable

 

Sounds like the same thing that happened to mine it wasn't repairable either wait and keep looking for the correct one or contact your local triumph dealer for a replacement
Easy enough to do but it's rad off exhausts off new gaskets new oil new coolant and 4 hours of your life

 

I think you can do it with the rad on but it's much easier with it off
Yeah post you're progress with pictures we're all interested and here to help

 

I had to replace mine
You definitely need to remove the headers; It is a real pain with the Radiator in place - If I remember correctly I think I was able to remove the headers without actually draining cooling and removing the rad, but just unbolting the bottom fixings and moving it out of the way (it might actually be easier on the Speed Triple because of Oil Cooler vs my Daytona one)
But honestly, it's just going to be much easier to drain coolant and remove radiator - seems like extra step but will go a lot smoother and a good opportunity to flush and refill coolant (which is probably one of THE most overlooked maintenance tasks)

On finding replacement pan - note that a Daytona pan is NOT the same - the oil cooler fittings are different type; and 97-01 model pans are also different (be careful when you look on Ebay as they tend to say they will 'fit' across both generations and multi-model)
But 02-04 Sprint 955 and a Tiger 955 is also the same

Here is a Tiger one that should be the correct one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-2001-TR...277677?hash=item4d9a4de3ed:g:29gAAOSwztddWywm
(you are in the States, right?)

And of course you will need a gasket - OEM part # T1230224

 

Use on an online parts fiche to validate the part numbers

I use this one (even though the pricing is in Swedish kr, it is good/easy/thorough for purpose of ID'ing parts)
http://www.triumphcenteruppsala.se
or this one from UK
https://www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/bikes

https://www.worldoftriumph.com/coll...pe=speed-triple-from-vin-210445-to-vin-461331

Repeat process to ID the part for the one you might want to validate from a different model

 

Heads up - You might want to grab it quick - there is a US Sprint owner on the TRat forum with same issue so he might also be looking

Disclaimer: I have ZERO affiliation with seller of part listing and please validate for yourself that the item is compatible and fit for purpose.

 

On a 17 yr old bike I might be tempted to go another route.....

Subject to whatever access you can easily gain, you might consider an epoxy metal putty. In Bosnia my army workshop mates fixed a Mercedes saloon that had smacked its sump on a rock and lost its oil through the tear. They thought it was temporary but the grateful German charity rep was back months later showing just how permanent it was.

If you drain the oil and ‘improve’ the crack enough to get a steam cleaner in there and generally degrease, you may find ‘good enough’ is good enough.

 

@Callumity is not wrong when he talks about the properties of this solution I too have seen it used on a mil truck and a version we had double bond held aircraft parts it is another useful way ahead if all else proves difficult

 

Kryskwhite

Easy enough to do but it's rad off exhausts off new gaskets new oil new coolant and 4 hours of your life.

On the assumption this is all you need to do - and I have every reason to believe it is, I just wanted to reassure you as a fellow tentative learner that I don't believe you need to be phased by any of these steps.

As already mentioned; replacing the coolant is a worthy service item, and not at all something to be afraid of...I managed it, and I truely believe that that is a good gauge of "the idiot factor". If I can do it, anyone can

It will be a rewarding thing for you to do. And if you can work a screwdriver, is well within scope. If you're draining the coolant, then taking the radiator off is simply nuts and bolts.

I would say ditto for the oil change..

And.... if you can tackle both those things then a new pan and gasket is going to be well within the technical level you're dealing with.

Some of this I fully appreciate seems really scary...but once you get in there, it really isn't as bad as it seems. I promise.

Familiarise yourself with a few similar YouTube videos before hand...just to get an eye in about what's what and build confidence. Also take lots of photos. After every nut if needed!

Having said this, I can also vouch for epoxy resin!

And, whatever route you choose I can personally testify that apart from some light and well intentioned ribbing you will find friendly, sound advice patiently delivered from these forum members.

There is simply nothing better than 'fixing' your own bike!

Good luck, but mostly have fun!!

 

I replaced one for a friend who over tightened the sump plug whilst doing an oil change, I sourced a second hand one in very good condition for £40, it took just over 3 hours to do, I did get all the necessary parts together first, including new studs etc for the headers. The job is straightforward on a scale of 1 to 10 on difficulty, 1 being extreamly easy and 10 you need good mechanical skills and the tools (i.e.full engine strip and rebuild. The job for the sump replacement I would rate as a 3. Hope this helps and safe riding all.

 

Hi Krysk, I would order gaskets for the headers for what they cost, it's just not worth it, getting them off and finding one or more are damaged, also the old ones will have compressed slightly when fitted originally, even more annoying would be if you reassembled everything and found the headers "blowing" from an exhaust leak. I would spray the studs with a penetrating oil a few days before starting the job, repeat a few times, it helps warming the engine up afterwards, as this helps draw the fluid deep into the studs to head (don't spray it on whilst engine is running or a hot engine), leave it a few hours once sprayed before warming the engine up. Ride safe all.