recently I removed the eccentric chain adjuster on my speed triple, and found it had been grease with copper grease from the factory. So I cleaned it and regressed it withe more copper grease. On reflection I'm wondering if normal grease would have been better. I would have thought Triumph know what they are doing, but I find over time copper grease goes hard.
It’s the difference between an anti-seize/anti corrosion and a lubricant for moving parts. Copper grease is the better choice for the hub housing.
We have had a discussion about this at our club, aluminium + copper + salt water must = corrosion surely. I put coppa slip on the bolts that lock the rear spindle carrier into the aluminium swing arm and when adjusting the chain some months later the aluminium was badly corroded around the bolt head, I use Vaseline now as it is not itself corrosive as some greases are. Discuss?
The great thing about aluminium oxide is that, although unsightly, it is kind of self sealing. Once you have a layer it seals the surface. Removing it repeats the process. You have galvanic corrosion because of the different electrical potential of a steel bolt and the alloy. The other grease with great water resistance is silicone and it is oil free. Best for lubricating plastic!
I believe you have to be cautious greasing bolts, unless the manufacturer specifies it. As it can affect the torque pressures, I guess it's ok on little bolts holding on bodywork and trim. But you should avoid it when not advised, like spark plug threads.
Torque settings have to do with bolt stretch. Tightening has to do with thread friction. The fastener needs to be pre-stressed to provide the compression force required to do the job of holding the parts together. Many times bolt manufacturers will define a number of turns on the fastener after a lower torque setting to obtain the proper stress. Lubricating the threads will lessen the torque required to turn the nut, perhaps resulting in higher pre-stress than intended. However, if the screw is a rusty mess, the opposite can happen. Some applications specify grease, other just clean and dry. In the end, there probably nothing on the bike that is so particular. If you were assembling a turbine generator, it would make a lot of difference. Think about drilling out a busted head stud and change to a bigger stud. Is the torque setting the same? No it isn't. You have to calculate the stretch and force to do the same compression. Actually, the torque will be lower in many cases. At work we use "super bolts" that are not torqued at all, but have a collar with a bunch of smaller bolts that actually stretch the fastener. The smaller bolts are torqued to specific values to get the right force.
That would be the mechanics of your imagination...... The number of turns is a function of thread pitch and completely unrelated to their lubrication.......UNLESS you are using a ratchet wrench and are unwittingly backing it off a bit ever time you crank the wrench!
For items requiring a grease as opposed to anti seize compound, like chain adjusters etc, I use a saltwater marine spec, waterproof white grease. In fact I've also used it for anti seize applications where there's no heat involved. For exhaust studs and fittings or anywhere where oil base grease would burn off, that's where copper or graphite grease comes in . As for torquing bolts etc where the torque setting can be critical I use a very light oil like 3 in 1 and blow off the excess leaving just enough to stop corrosion without significantly affecting the torque setting. For removing excess earwax I've used warm olive oil. JMO
Yes........ Hydrogen peroxide made up 80-85% of the rocket fuel oxidiser in these little chaps. It was equally good at oxidising the pilot......
Peroxide?? Int that what I used to have put on mi hair int 80's, to mek mi look like Coverdale, Jon Bon, et al??????
