Apologies if this has been covered before elsewhere but I have returned to biking after a 15 year break and have owned a 2012 Speedmaster for about three weeks. I am very pleased with the bike other than being unable to make a smooth change up without clunking from 1st to 2nd gear. I wonder if anybody has similar problems or advice? Perhaps its me but all other changes are smooth after pre-loading the lever slightly. Thanks
It's not that unusual tbh. More a matter of technique. If changing at very low revs it's worse. Trying changing 1 to 2 at 3000rpm or more. And change gear quickly.
Hmmm, my problem (on a Speedie III) is engaging from neutral to 1st, it makes the whole bike 'clunk' when 1st engages. If I try it slowly the gears actually grind! However, from 1st to 2nd, I have not problem....I appreciate this is of absolutely no help at all to you Java, but as a whole, I would have hoped motorbike engines would have resolved this clunkiness around 1st gear :/
It's an issue on pretty-much all the bikes I've had, except the Suzuki's. I think it's got something to do with 1st being on the 'wrong' side of neutral. 2 to 5th smooth as you like but anything to do with 1st and it's a bugger !!!
Welcome Java. have a similar problem changing up from 1 to 2. This must be something of a common problem with chain drives as every chain drive I've had has clunked from 1 to 2. That said I'm inclined to follow the Biglads advice and change up at higher revs. I've done this by accident or luck and the change has been nice and slick.
Thanks for your replies. I'm pretty confident everything is adjusted correctly. I think I am changing into 2nd too soon and will try getting the revs up in future. Will let you know if this improves things when I next get out.
I wouldn't worry too much. The gearbox on the America is not exactly the smoothest. I did 14k on my America and it never got any better
Thanks again for the replies and here is an update. I tried changing into 2nd much later at a higher r.p.m. and have managed some really smooth changes. However, I will have to experiment further to determine the optimum speed/rpm as I have only managed to get it absolutely smooth on a couple of occasions.
Agree with thebiglad - change on the Bonnie from 1st to 2nd could clunk at slower revs and is far worse on the Trident at low speed, but much smoother if you build the revs up.
Hi JM, set your expectations to medium, you be fine then. 1st to 2nd changes are often not that smooth.
Coming from a GSXR750, the box on my America is somewhat agricultural (Not as bad a Harley Fat Boy, I tested). I am hoping that with only 1200 miles on it, it will loosen up a little bit, but don't expect it to get Gixxer smooth. Been trying clutched and clutchless up shift and sure with a few more miles and a bit of practice it will smooth out. As the man above said - set your expectations to medium.
Imo Suzuki bike gearboxes are probably the best in the world, so it follows that anything else will be less good - but still perfectly OK for the job.
I thought is was me but not so,I agree with the engine speed theory slow changing is a noisy Maverick experience make it as quick as possible and all is well,but not like a Suzuki(1500 was flauless in every gear change)
I had my Speedy for just over two years. I can't say I ever noticed this problem. Then again, I don't mind agricultural. I do own a Ural for heavens sake!
After 10,000 miles on the America, can't say I notice it now. Either it has smoothed out, or just used to it now. I think it has just been run in now. Easily up the box including clutch-less shifting.
My 2010 America's done nearly 17k now. 1st to 2nd is be a bit clanky. I just usually do a nice slow change but give the gear lever a nice BIG lift with my left toe. Then let out the clutch lever. On the other hand if you want to move quicker just wind back the throttle and quickly kick the gear lever up, letting the clutch lever flip out.
Daft as it seems, try changing your oil. Some bikes clutches run much better on semi synth rather than fully synth oil. Obviously I don't know what oil is in your bike, but it never hurts to put some fresh in. Four litres will set you back about forty quid, so it's a relatively cheap potential fix, and even if it doesn't cure the issue, what is there not to like about clean fresh oil in your bike? The choice of oil is a bit like the choice of tyres - everyone has an opinion, but any reputable branded manufacturer's product should be OK as long as it's a motorcycle oil - whatever you do, don't use a car oil. Just check what grade is recommended for your bike.