What is the discharge of oil pump used in Daytona 675r and what problem would I face if I change the lubrication system to dry sump system ? Could any can tell me about above thing.
No idea you would have to ask the factory for that info i suspect that the workshop manual will only give you the pressure readings...have to ask just why would you want to go dry sump?
Hi Gaurav. I suspect that it will be very difficult to obtain technical specs on the Daytona oil pump flow rates - it's not something that most riders/end users would need or want to know, really. I can't imagine that even race teams would be looking to change something like the oil pump specs and very much doubt that there's any advantage in changing to a dry sump system on an engine that's been designed and built around a wet sump.
I just monitor pressure on my bikes. Most people do not even do that. I feel it is important to keep.an eye on it. Here is one oil pressure gauge setup. This one is on my Legend 900. ...J.D.
Gaurav 4699 Like Tricky- Dicky said why on earth would you want to do that. Its a high revving engine that relies on an oil bath and splash system. It could be done at great expense but never the less hope you have a good supply of engines. Regards Joe.
hi, my reason is that I am using this engine for my Formula 1 prototype race car. so to lower its CG(Center of gravity) I took this decision and over that, I read that it will increase my performance. If anybody did such a thing please tell me.
Can u give me the values of that, I think it will be similar to that of my engine? And did u modified your engine's lubrication system?
I think you may be looking to hard as i really cant see how moving the oil into a separate tank which would have to be at the same level or slightly higher than the motor would benefit as its all on the same level so COG wouldn't change appreciably, Secondly are you sure you mean F1 as the engine is not capable of meeting current criteria, and last the gain from less oil drag on the crank is minimal even if it touches the crank probably gain 5bhp.
Just thinking about the whole external pump idea did it occur to you that you would need a mechanical drive from the motor to run the pump and add to that the extra weight...... you could of course go the F1 approach where they have used electric pumps for oil and water but the cost would be prohibitive unless you have sponsors with deep pockets.
Hi Gaurav, I have a dry-sumped Hayabusa engine in a single seater race car used for hillclimbs in the UK. A wet sumped bike engine works because it leans, so the oil stays in the sump. When you bolt the same engine into a 4-wheeled chassis, the oil will run up the sides of the sump when you corner and therefore cannot be scavenged. Accelerating and braking isn't such a problem. There are many bike engined hillclimb single seaters (from 600cc) that manage ok with a wet sump, but the cars only run for less than a minute each time generally and the engine's are rebuilt frequently, usually every year or two. The reason to convert to dry-sump is that you prolongue the life of the engine because you maintain oil pressure. With a wet sump my oil pressure would drop briefly to a low of something like 10psi while revving to the red line and accelerating to 120+mph in the first 5-6 seconds. No good if you are running around a circuit for a long period of time. Getting pumps, tanks and plumbing is the easy bit, getting a sump made will be the expensive bit unless you can find a company that already makes them. A tall, narrow tank will hold about 5-7 litres so when the oil is centrifuged up the sides, there is always oil available at the hose outlet so the pump can't run dry. I have an electric water pump as the standard water pump (driven by the engine) is removed so the drive mechanism can be used by the oil pump. Hope that gives you some ideas! Good luck with your build. I'd like to try a triple too, I don't know of any here in UK hillclimbing. (You can explore this website for dry sump hayabusa components etc. https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/index.php/products/index/2915. )
It is probably easier to just get the std sump baffled to combat oil surge...and a lot cheaper...commonly done with race cars and fast road cars.
I converted a car engine to dry-sump for competition use and the method was to use the engine's own pump to continue to pressure feed the bearings etc, but have a scavenge only external pump (belt driven) to move the used oil from the sump back to the main tank. In other words, the engine has two oil pumps. Cosworth do a dry sump conversion kit for the Duratec Ford engine, and this is the technique they use. I don't see any reason why a similar approach would not work with a bike engine.
