What is the reg/rec....? It’s the unit that converts the output from the alternator and regulates it so the bikes systems can use it How will I know if it is a bollock down - when it’s output voltage isn’t what it’s supposed to be, ie 18V How do I fix it!? - get a new one! Will my wife have to work even harder to pay for it! - Yep!
It just dropped. As did the revs - coinciding with it getting up to temp? Idling at a fraction over 1000rpm It dropped to about 14.5. for a minute or so. Then up to 16 or so... Then 14.6. Now 16 again. It varies as the revs flutter at idle.
Just had a quick look on Wemoto at prices and it looks like you may need one of these - https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/triumph/speed_triple_955_t509_efi/02-03/picture/regulator There’s also a little bit of info at the bottom which will help you to be sure it’s the rectifier and not an alternator fault.
Might have to be as well, it depends on whether the fault with the charging system has cooked the battery. Only way to tell if it’s done any damage is to get the battery tested with a load test. Lots of garages can do this.
Thank you all for your help...really appreciated. I feel I have been on a 'motorcycle journey's...without even riding! A learning journey, and a good one! Thank you!
Well, this is the thing with owning older bikes, things start to wear out or break and it can start getting costly. The alternative is buying newer but that just means shelling out to buy it.
As DD said ......sounds like you have been frying the battery. The rectifier converts alternating current (produced by the alternator) to direct current (as stored and given out by the battery). The regulator is like an electrical valve. It diverts excess current AWAY from the battery and the finned bit is to dissipate excess heat. Sounds like you are now on track anyway..... Battery specs in amp hrs reflect total storage capacity, the type numbers indicate dimensions and most conventional bike batteries are now glass mat gel - good enough!
Thank you all! So...what's a sator (stator?) What's that...and...all those other questions... What is it? How will I know I need it? What if I don't get one? Or if sorting the rectifier then just sort the stator at the same time? It sounds to me, to do this properly (and therefore more expensively)...replace the rectifier. Replace the stator. Replace the battery. Thanks!!
A Sator produces electricity. A Rec/Reg takes this changes the current from edit. AC to DC ( wrong DC to AC dont mind me) and regulates the flow. press play for calming effect. A fault in one can affect the other. bad wiring or connections can cause failure. To avoid the expence of doing this again in a couple of monthes I would suggest working from the Sator through the Reg/Rec to the battery checking the wiring as you go. The opinion seems to be dont by cheap. https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tr...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html Dont Panic Captain.Mainwaring Move slowly, one step, at a time, post each step on here, clearly, and youll get every help you need. Take pics as you go for reference. ( and cos we like pics) Its not pennies so dont need to do it again.
An alternator has 2 parts. The static stator is the fixed winding and the rotor contains the magnets. Rotate the magnets and they induce a current in the stator windings.....provided they are intact.
Your stator should be fine and if the £18.99 flea bay reg / rectifier is plug and play then thats the way to go as it looks like the rectifier is faulty and will over charge / damage the ECU and blow your bulbs etc. I doubt the DVM is over reading but worth checking across a car or other vechicle to check it doesn't go over 14.5v DC Max The weemoto web site shows a Yusa 14 YTX battery for £79 , th same battery in Halfords on Sunday was £62 and with a halfords trade card this comes down to £49-50 but you can also get an Excide AGM for £42 - £49. The was no CC figure stated on the Motolloto battery recomended by others so hard to really compare batteries like for like performance wise. My advice is avoid DYNAVOLT as ive used them but they don't last IMHO The main thing to look for when comparing 14ah batteries is the CC figure, i.e CC200 which means it can provide 200 Amp capacity in a lab at 21 deg so ratings on batteries need to be adjusted (de rated) for the real world conditions as in too hot or too cold is bad for batteries. Good luck
I've bloody fixed it! Fairings off... rectifier all exposed and ready to test. A beer in the sunshine...volt meter out, on and ready. Radio6 on in the background (currently playing Speed king by Deep Purple)... And lo, a purple wire coming out the rectifier unattached to anything, that has a big sticker on it saying "Must be connected to +ve terminal of battery". It looked important; so I connected it. Now... Consistently voltage at idle across the battery is 14.2ish. blipped to 14.5V. So...I think that's what it was. ! Now...I wouldn't for one moment suggest that my shananigans with the battery in/out, in/out meant I forgot to reconnect that purple wire....... But I guess someone else can Of course...I think I still just need a new battery... But at least that's all! What a journey everyone!!!
Nice one, the simple fixes are always the best! If you’re still unsure about the battery, just get it tested at a garage to be sure.
Thats great You could always take the purple wire and re route it directly onto a permanent live such as the battery +ve feed to the starter solenoid. That way it will be a permie fix and shouldn't cause a future problem
