Featured Project Fuligin

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Terry S, Aug 18, 2018.

  1. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    Newer than Triumph OEM, anyhow.
    Amazon calls them
    KEMIMOTO Motorcycle Mirrors for Road King Sportster Street Glide Electra Glide Dyna Softail Road Glide 1982-2017 (Black 2)
    And the adapters:
    Joker MacHine Mirror Adapter Bushings Pair Aluminum for Triumph All Years
     
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  2. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    And the new NH headers and togas are on. Thanks for all the encouragement -- I replaced the headers myself. Three of the studs came out with the nuts, so I replaced all four studs + nuts. I installed a Dynojet stage one kit, and it works, I think. I was able to take only a short test ride because it is raining like hell this afternoon.
     
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  3. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    An update. New NH headers & togas are on, and a Dynojet stage 1 carb tuning kit is installed. I give thanks to Dozier's Dad for shaming me into changing my own damn exhaust system ;). On Sunday I installed the NH headers and togas, and on Monday I installed the Dynojet stage 1 carb tuning kit.Today I installed the M bars.
    Impressions of the NH headers & togas: Very nice, install took more effort than skill. The local hardware store had appropriate replacements, so I ended up replacing all of the studs & nuts.
    You have to set all the pieces in place and nudge them into a good fit and alignment as you work your way around torquing the mount points. The first time I did this I had less then great fit on the crossover (there was a mismatch between the outer & inner joint where the slots in the outside of the left pipe crossover were not completely covering the inner end of the right pipe), so I had to loosen all the mounting nuts & clamps and start over. When I was done I degreased the headers and togas so my finger prints wouldn't get burned in when the pipes got hot. The system looks and sounds great, like a big ol' gurgling two cylinder engine. The header + toga setup is still pretty long, so the sound isn't raw, even w/o the baffles.
    Installing the Dynojet Stage 1 kit was straightforward. I had an SS replacement kit for the 8 screws that hold on the Keihin's top and bottom. On one carb, I had to drill out one of the factory screws.
    The results of the exhaust exchange & carb tuning met or exceeded my expectations. I do not have access to a dyno, but the power band feels much more linear. I hit second and accelerate hard and don't feel as though I should change gears until I am going 60 MPH. And there is that wonderful roar! If I am in 5th gear doing 40 MPH, I don't have to downshift to accelerate.
    This is not a cheap upgrade. The NH togas and headers cost about $900 US, and the Dynojet carb tuning kit was around a hundred bucks. Worth it, in my opinion.

    my_bonnie.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
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  4. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to add that I am afraid that I am running a bit lean at low revs. The new header pipes are turning gold, which is to be expected, definitely not blue, but the yellow is further down the headers than I would like it to be. I disabled the air injection when I installed the Dynojet kit. The Bonnie doesn't backfire at all, even in worst case conditions, meaning I roll off the throttle after accelerating hard. The main jet I installed was the biggest in the Dynojet kit, 118. I emailed the Norman Hyde folks and they recommended a 124 main jet. I opened up the idle screw 1/2 turn from stock -- don't dare fuss with it more without a proper D screw tool -- and to complicate matters further, all of my test rides have been where I live, a bit less than 4000' elevation. So I should be biased rich by about two main jet sizes.
     
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  5. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice, Half Ton. These adjustments depend a lot on personal riding style. I like to carry a passenger now & then, and I don't care about going faster than about 80 MPH. I want low end pulling power and mid range acceleration.
    I need to get the idle mixture set correctly first. I ordered a D screw tool weeks ago, but the supplier says that they are back ordered. I turned the D screw out from stock 1/2 turn using a kluge, but it is not good. The factory setting did not have the screws set out symmetrically. The left carb idle screw was not a duplicate of the right carb idle screw. They were kapa kai about 90 degrees.
    But I have a nice mercury manometer, and a nice DNA high flow air filter, and the richer Norman Hyde main jets so I'll figure it out.
     
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  6. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20181031.jpg
     
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  7. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

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    Time for an update.
    New lower headlight brackets, new flat dash from Bonneville Brackets, new Lucas-style tail light assembly with smaller, black, bullet turn signals. The new dash has a puka for the ignition switch, so I moved it to the dashboard where God intended it to be. Also new NH M bars.
     
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