This is a bit long winded and relates to one of those automatic chain oilers - a FAQ sheet from Pro-Oiler reviewing the types of oil recommended and their pros and cons. It makes interesting reading, especially the part about chainsaw oil, which I'd always considered to be the ideal compromise. Before I had access to cheap aka free WD-40 chain wax and lube in our dealership workshop I used to use gear oil. FAQ r1.6 Oils 1. What oil should I use in the PRO-OILER? The short answer is use any clean motor oil. Mineral, semi-synthetic, fully synthetic... it doesn't really matter - though synthetic oil's better viscosity index is a marginal advantage We have carried out extensive tests with various different classes of oils, and all have their pro's and con's. Motor oil's cocktail of special additives have little to do with exposed chain lubrication. However, it does have a mix of characteristics which make it the best compromise for use in the pumped PRO-OILER. The PRO-OILER is a total-loss lubrication system - the old dirty oil eventually flings off as it's replaced by new oil ("self-regeneration"). If the chain is washed in oil (as with imprecise gravity-feed or manual systems), then the choice of oil is not so critical. One of the PRO-OILER's trump cards is that it can run very lean settings. But this does mean that the small quantity of oil that does get used must do the whole job. The oil has to have the following qualities · Good coverage ("wetting power") - Important because the oil has to get to all parts of the chain without using excessively rich settings (eg. the outside of the side-plates for corrosion protection) - Good wetting power = low consumption = low fling-off · Good lubrification qualities - Some oils may have a string of attractive features, but have poor lubrication... eg. silicone-based chain oils · 100% Guaranteed compatibility with NBR seals (pump's seals and chain's o-rings) Motor oil + Great wetting power (spreads well on the chain = good hydro-capillary characteristics) + Self-regenerating (not sticky, so dirt and dirty oil remains do not stick to the chain) + Produces the lowest consumption + Guaranteed compatibility with NBR seals in the pump and chain's o-rings - Relatively low adhesion means - it flings off easily. However, this also keeps the chain clean you need less oil = lower consumption = less fling off than thick sticky oil - delivery has to be turned up higher and more quickly when the roads are wet (ie. it is not as resistant to the washing action as other more adhesive oils) Gearbox oil Pro's and con's broadly similar to motor oil + EP (Extreme Pressure) charateristics, so theoretically better protection at the bushing-roller contact area - Wetting power not quite as as good as motor oil, so needs a richer setting Chainsaw bar oil + Adhesive (but see below) + Good performance in the wet, as it doesn't wash off as easily as motor oil. The delivery does not need to be turned up as high or as promptly as with motor oil + Inexpensive - Wetting power is not as good as motor oil, so richer settings required = higher consumption = more fling off - Picks up dirt due to adhesiveness. Self-regenerating, but only at richer settings - Not guaranteed compatible with NBR seals and o-rings because this compatibility is not part of the design brief for a chainsaw bar oil! We have encountered oils which have attacked the seals. - Not always easy to find the right type of oil (mineral, not bio-degradable which can rot in the lines and pump Specialized industrial chain oils + Great lubrication qualities + Self-regenerating + Hydro-capillary qualities (penetrates quickly) + Guaranteed compatible with NBR seals in the pump and chain's o-rings - Relatively low adhesion means - it flings off easily. However, this also keeps the chain clean - delivery has to be turned up higher and more quickly when the roads are wet (ie. it is not as resistant to the washing action as other more adhesive oils) - Expensive... up to Eur 30 per litre! Bottom Line: Motor oil is by happy coincidence the oil type that delivers the lowest consumption, and least fling-off.
So I'm noticing that Triumphs have the chain on the opposite side to most others, right hand chained not like them foreign left hand chained machines. Any reason why or just a Triumph thing, maybe don't want a rolling chain closest to the pavement?
Just the way the engine has been designed, probably a throwback to the days when the engine and gearbox were separate, they had the chain on the right IIRC
For the initial deep clean:- Spray with ordinary WD40 using a piece of cardboard to avoid spraying tyres etc. Clean chain thoroughly using a toothbrush. Wipe all the shit away with kitchen roll. Apply 80/90 gear oil with a small paintbrush. Bob's yer uncle. As others have said, your chain will run quiet, road crap won't stick to it the same as "those sprays" and it will look bootiful ! Bike shops use sprays. They sprayed my Street Triple that I bought in June, the chain went rusty within the week.
I use Wurth with PTFE. (Used to be called Plastic Tape For Engineers) Quiet, very little mess, dries, dry, but then I do wipe any excess off to the point of cleaning the side plates, removing the chain guard and sprocket cover I know, I know, I have too much time on my hands, one of those mindless things I do, but its soooo, satisfying.
Hi I use the wd40 chain lube and find it just right if you do not drown the chain with it, as I have white wall tyres I know about little and often, don’t waste what you have paid for, cleaning with wd40 as well. PS the white wall were on when I brought the bike.
Hi I use the wd40 chain lube and find it just right if you do not drown the chain with it, as I have white wall tyres I know about little and often, don’t waste what you have paid for, cleaning with wd40 as well. PS the white wall were on when I brought the bike.
Thanks for al your helpful comments, Enda's been cleaned as advised, warm chain re-lubed sparingly this time with the 80/90 oil stuff applied by brush.
I was advised STAY CLEAR of WD 40 even for cleaning never mind lubrication. Apparently it likes to snack on the O/X rings. I'ts hiss thin and not for chains full stop. Just image the forces between the roller and the sprocket...... and you spray it with some general purpose lubricant.
All good thanks fella, chain is as smooth as a fox in a dinner jacket, got myself a litre of EP80/90 so should have enough to see me through to 2028 and beyond
That's why i used Wurth, dries, dry, absolute minimum of throw off. I tried them all on my Speed Triple, Bell Ray, Motul, Castrol etc. Spent more time cleaning than riding and the above stuff got every where. Stuck like sxit to a blanket. And just as hard to clean.
Wurth DRY chain lube...excellent stuff and doesn’t allow the general road sn£te to stick to the chain...used it for years and no chain or sprocket wear issues on my Daytona or Speedy
P.s make sure your chain is spotlessly clean first with WD40 or my favourite GT85 and lube with dry chain lube every 500 miles...simples
On my Street Scrambler I overlubed the chain and was fooled into thinking I had an oil leak from the engine somewhere as it ran down the casing beside the rider right footrest and dripped on the garage floor just in one spot. I put it into the dealers who said I’d massively overlubed but said the 900 engine design was such that excess lube collected in one area and ran down the casings making it look like an actual leak. Pic attached. They cleaned the chain and casings and relubed so I now need to work out a way of getting just the right amount of lube on so I don’t waste any, or make more mess on the garage floor... at least oil wise anyhow
So dry lube is recommended which brand? There are a lot of bicycle stuff on ebay....didn't see the ''wurth'' stuff that was mentioned....any clue where I can get it in the states?
Don't touch the sprays. It's for pussies. It's a second best substitute for people who can't be arsed to do a proper job. Gear oil is the future I tell yer ! Not that I'm a traditionalist mind. It's a bit like cleaning ya boots, do you use Kiwi/Dubbin with a rag or a brush or do you use one of those naff shine your shoes sponge jobs ?
I used the dogs tooth brush......don't gasp in horror!!! I'm buying another one for the bike..........er, dog....sorry.
