Speedmaster Efi Engine Stops At Red Light

Hi,
When I start my Speedmaster 2008 EFI everything runs fine - starts 100%
But when the engine is warm he runs stationary lower and the engine stops when I stop at a red light.
That is most of the time.
I played with the 'relanti' of the engine. tune little bit higher when he runs idle and that helps, but I have to lower it again next time.
I replaced the spark plugs yet - but no change.
Do I have to synchronise the carbs?
Grtz
Dave

 

Salut Dave et bienvenue !

When the engine has warmed up, does it tickover (relanti) smoothly? The tickover speed for your engine is 1050 rpm.

Synchronising the carbs is always a good idea, have you heard of tuneecu? It's a free to use program for Triumphs (and others) that will help you.

Here's a link to the download (multiple languages available) :

http://www.tuneecu.com/

 

Thx - That Tuneecu looks cool, but not good for someone who knows to little of motorbikes (like me).
That's the point the relanti is to slow if the engine is warm.
When its cold it goed perfect.

 

Good morning!
I don't know much but these things I am aware of
That's what I mean - I increased the tickover speed when the engine was warm and it is fine. But next time the tickover can be much to high without changing it.

 

It sounds like a tickover adjustment problem - get the engine properly warm after 20 mins riding - but if you do not get a constant result with a warm engine you may have a very small air leak in the inlet manifold. You can check by spraying WD40 or even soapy water around the rubber sleeves and vacuum caps and see if it is being drawn into the inlet.

 

Hi Dave, do you use the push/pull start control on the lhs of the bike? If you read your instruction manual you will see that Triumph state it should be used at ALL starts, not just cold starts. It's not a choke.

 

OK Nice! I'll check that!

I only use start control with cold engine - I really thougt It was a choke...

 

I think we might be getting somewhere. If you use it on cold starts, when you pull out the knob it raises the relanti significantly. Bear in mind it has 2 positions).

When you push it back in, (on my bike it would be after just a few seconds) the relanti (tickover) will reduce. It sounds to me like the relanti is set too low for a fully warmed-up engine. I would be going on a 10-15 minute ride (engine now fully warm), stop and leave the engine running running, then using the knurled relanti control re-set the relanti (1000-1100rpm). 1000 rpm will sound fairly fast if you're not used to it - does your Speedmaster have a working compte-tours (rev counter)? If so it should be easy to do.

 

On my bike also after a few seconds and then it runs great.
Also the relanti is ok. But if the engine is warm, then the engine stops.
Remark - that's not al te time. sometimes the relanti stays constant and sometimes so less that he stops.
I also found out that it depends how hard I stopped. If I stopped more brutal the chance is bigger that the engine stops.
I must also remark that it is 8 years ago that I replaced the spark plugs
and I have open exhausts and we did not do à change of setting on the carbu.
Maybe more someting like that?
Or just cleaning and reconfig the carbs...

 

Aaaah!! Sounds like with the change to open pipes without modifying the fuelling, you have made the engine run lean.

Just to be clear, you don't have carbs, you have fuel injection.

 

Do you mean the engine cuts out when you roll off the throttle? My brother has a 2016 America and has this problem, we thought we’d cleared it by removing the air injection, it improved but happens now and again. Idling is fine and he uses the correct stArt up procedure.

 

yes when I relaese the trottle the engine cuts off - mostly - 75%
I(ll try that cleaner and WD40 - Thx for the tips !

 

Hi Dave, your bike, being an EFi has things called MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors. There are two rubber small-bore pipes (1 for each cylinder) that go from the throttle body, to the sensor itself. Sometimes they are not well enough sealed where they fit onto the spigot of the throttle body. As a result the sensors can give dodgy info to the ecu, causing all sorts of poor running including poor tick-over.

To test for this, do the following WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE AT ANY TIME DURING THIS PROCEDURE :

1. Park the park on it's centre stand (if it has one), start the engine and leave to tick-over for 2 to 3 mins;

2. Locate the MAP vacuum pipes on the throttle bodies (TB) and 1 cylinder at a time, spray WD-40 at the point where the pipe fits onto the TB whilst listening VERY carefully to the engine note.

3. If the engine note changes directly linked with the time you spray, you have a leak and it is often due to a slack fit of the pipe onto the spigot.

4. I cured it on my bike by removing the pipe from the spigot, putting sealant on to the lower end and then replacing the pipe. Then using small black zip ties I secured the pipe on the spigot.

Never had any further trouble with my T100.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

Super! I'll try this and buy also an engine cleaner.
Thx guys!

 

Hi Dave , I have a 2013 Speedmaster with the same problem you had ! Did you find out the cause of the problem ? Thanks

 

Bit of confusion here as originally the OP said it was EFI and then mentioned carbs...diagnosis will be quite different for each.

 

I would get a re-map, cost me £40 and Triumph balanced the efi for me...smooth as butter!

 

Thanks for the reply ,I will try that .

 

Eventually found the problem ! The MAP sensors had been placed on the wrong side of each other when a piston was replaced ! Human error !

 

Glad its sorted...but you should have had a CEL and a code of Code P1111 if the vacuum hoses where crossed.