Is It The Coils?

Have you ever had the float bowls off? You might find 20 yrs of crud in there! My 12 yr old had fine rust sand and a couple of water globules.....

 

There are two parts to check.....the inlet ‘sleeves’ that connect the carbs to the manifold proper and the small vacuum caps on the nipples used to balance the carbs. Soapy water or WD40 will give a tell tale of any leaks that will be leaning out the mixture.

Replacing them is no big deal just a bit of a fiddle and worth replacing the carb to airbox rubbers at the same time as they age harden.......four jubilee clips per side.

 

Don’t be intimidated. It is just a bit of manipulation. The carbs hang off the throttle cable and fuel lines and are clamped together so one side at a time is just a fiddle not a technical nightmare!

 

IMO...After a winter lay up id go for carb cleaner Redex or similar as the slow jets will/possibly gum up. Its 20 years old & carbs not been looked at for a year so i`d get some cleaner in the fuel & give it a good 50mile run before i got to spanners & multimeters. Both my Daytona`s had your trouble`s Both now have new slow jets. Both behave now. My penny worth..plus I'm lazy so all for the easy fix first lol
Any how hope you have or get it sorted!

 

Spray 'Easy Start' (WD40 is an alternative I do believe) over each inlet rubber with the bike ticking over. If the revs rise the rubber/s has/have split and all will need replacing (if one has split then the others won't be far behind).

 

Yep, mine too - the pain is that the cracks are hidden by the clips.

 

Hi,

I had a similar issue with my Speed Triple, hesitation on pick up, running on two cylinders until the revs hit 3000rpm then it would pick up fine, usually this was more apparent when the engine was warm. I got the coils and plugs replaced last month, one of the coils in particular looked like it was shorting. I have had no issues since.

Nick

 

If I may, you are a wee bit ‘all over the place’ with your diagnostics. Don’t worry.....part of the learning process.
Fundamentally you need to determine firstly if it is an electrical or a fuelling problem. It can be hard to determine which but it is key to narrowing down the possibilities. You have the bike, we don’t!
An ignition problem will create a no fire/misfire situation that may vary with engine temp or revs.
A fuelling problem tends to be starvation or a rich or lean condition. Cracks in the manifold rubbers or vacuum caps increase the air relative to fuel (lean) whereas a filthy air filter reduces air flow and could create a stumble off idle. You can easily check it visually for obvious debris or oil contamination and a short run without it fitted will not hurt the engine and confirm or eliminate your doubts.
If you do not have a Haynes manual or general handbook get one. You will learn fast. There is nothing obvious I can think of that would be provoked by a leaning bike.....it is what they do.....
You need to eliminate things by doing the checks suggested or we will end up going in circles rather than pinning things down. Ok?

 

Don’t confuse me with Springsteen! My grandson calls me Gampon which is a consonant short of shame

1. Test the inlet rubbers.

2. Got a multimeter? Something like this with a continuity buzzer....
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p98689
Plenty of ‘how to’ use sites. Test the resistance values of all three ignition coils and the pickup coil. I suspect one of your ignition coils bit that is an educated guess.

Tell us what resistance values you get. About 15k ohms from lead socket to frame/engine and something approaching 600 ohms on the two wires in the pickup connector near the battery......