Have you ever had the float bowls off? You might find 20 yrs of crud in there! My 12 yr old had fine rust sand and a couple of water globules.....
I had it all checked over by a motorcycle mechanic around 10 months ago with a suspected carb issue, so should be all clear.
They do have very fine hairline cracks, so possibly. Is there anyway to check them? Doesn't look like a simple job getting in there to replace them, without removing the carbs.
There are two parts to check.....the inlet ‘sleeves’ that connect the carbs to the manifold proper and the small vacuum caps on the nipples used to balance the carbs. Soapy water or WD40 will give a tell tale of any leaks that will be leaning out the mixture. Replacing them is no big deal just a bit of a fiddle and worth replacing the carb to airbox rubbers at the same time as they age harden.......four jubilee clips per side.
Very possible then, that split would be hidden under one of the jubilee clips! Did you manage to change them without removing anything else?
Don’t be intimidated. It is just a bit of manipulation. The carbs hang off the throttle cable and fuel lines and are clamped together so one side at a time is just a fiddle not a technical nightmare!
IMO...After a winter lay up id go for carb cleaner Redex or similar as the slow jets will/possibly gum up. Its 20 years old & carbs not been looked at for a year so i`d get some cleaner in the fuel & give it a good 50mile run before i got to spanners & multimeters. Both my Daytona`s had your trouble`s Both now have new slow jets. Both behave now. My penny worth..plus I'm lazy so all for the easy fix first lol Any how hope you have or get it sorted!
Spray 'Easy Start' (WD40 is an alternative I do believe) over each inlet rubber with the bike ticking over. If the revs rise the rubber/s has/have split and all will need replacing (if one has split then the others won't be far behind).
OK, I'll do the wd40 test on them and see if that has any effect first. It looks, from your photos, like you've removed the air box first and pulled the carbs back, what are the chances of changing the rubbers with it still in place? Thanks for your help!
Hi, I had a similar issue with my Speed Triple, hesitation on pick up, running on two cylinders until the revs hit 3000rpm then it would pick up fine, usually this was more apparent when the engine was warm. I got the coils and plugs replaced last month, one of the coils in particular looked like it was shorting. I have had no issues since. Nick
OK, the stalling issue seems to have disappeared. But, I still have the hesitation. It seems to be happening most when the bike is leant over, coming off roundabouts mostly, not sure if that's relevant? I haven't had chance to test the inlet rubbers by way of spraying wd40 on them, but it's also been suggested that the air filter might need a clean (I did fit tors a couple of months ago).
If I may, you are a wee bit ‘all over the place’ with your diagnostics. Don’t worry.....part of the learning process. Fundamentally you need to determine firstly if it is an electrical or a fuelling problem. It can be hard to determine which but it is key to narrowing down the possibilities. You have the bike, we don’t! An ignition problem will create a no fire/misfire situation that may vary with engine temp or revs. A fuelling problem tends to be starvation or a rich or lean condition. Cracks in the manifold rubbers or vacuum caps increase the air relative to fuel (lean) whereas a filthy air filter reduces air flow and could create a stumble off idle. You can easily check it visually for obvious debris or oil contamination and a short run without it fitted will not hurt the engine and confirm or eliminate your doubts. If you do not have a Haynes manual or general handbook get one. You will learn fast. There is nothing obvious I can think of that would be provoked by a leaning bike.....it is what they do..... You need to eliminate things by doing the checks suggested or we will end up going in circles rather than pinning things down. Ok?
Yes boss I'm just going by what other people say when I mention the issue. "Stumble off idle" is a good description of the hesitation, but not necessarily from idle, always below 3k revs though.
Don’t confuse me with Springsteen! My grandson calls me Gampon which is a consonant short of shame 1. Test the inlet rubbers. 2. Got a multimeter? Something like this with a continuity buzzer.... https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p98689 Plenty of ‘how to’ use sites. Test the resistance values of all three ignition coils and the pickup coil. I suspect one of your ignition coils bit that is an educated guess. Tell us what resistance values you get. About 15k ohms from lead socket to frame/engine and something approaching 600 ohms on the two wires in the pickup connector near the battery......
I've now changed the inlet rubbers, plugs and filled up with super unleaded. 100 mile ride out. Ran perfectly! The rubbers, although they had perished and split on the outside, didn't appear to be cracked on the inside. Apart from 1! That didn't seem to be all the way through though, but guess it must have been. The rubber is quite thick. The plugs appeared fine, I think, but swapped them for new anyway as they're only a few quids.
Another ride out today, no signs of the stalling issue but possibly still a hesitant throttle response and erratic idle. Again, still when warmed up. Also, the rev counter was mid-reading at the same time. Showing a few thousand revs than actual. The bike has done this sporadically in the year I've owned it, returns to normal of its own accord, sometimes whilst running sometimes when re-started. Does anyone know where the rev counter picks up the reading? I'm thinking it's worth checking as could be related.
