After leaving the bike under cover for 3 weeks, I've come back today and am having starting issues. There's zero response to turning the key. I've plugged her in to a trickle charger for a few hours so far, but it indicates the battery is full. Voltage is above 13.2V. Seems a bit odd - even if the battery was very dead, surely a few hours charging would at least turn the ignition on? And 3 weeks isn't an extremely long time to leave it, is it? My only thought is that the extreme cold we've had in London has perhaps completed killed the battery? Cheers, Gus
Hi Gus. Think that 12v voltage sounds a bit low for starting a Triumph with EFI. From experience you won't get much of a response from the bikes brain below 12.8v. How old is the bike / battery. This cold weather will kill an untended battery stone dead. First thing I do after a ride is connect to an intelligent trickle charger.
Edited after your response - it's putting out 13.2V Bike is 2014 so battery would be original - do you think it's still a battery issue with 13.2V coming out? It has been hovering around zero for a while now it seems...
I had similar issue on my 2012 Bonneville, to prove battery, I jump started from another battery. A 4 year old battery is probably near the end of its time! Although it shows 13.2v there may be very little current stored. Triumphs seem very fussy about voltage
Correct - absolutely nothing. Gonna give a new battery ago - I was something some odd running issues before I left which think may be linked (wouldn't run smoothly until it had been running for 5 mins)
no response at all...... main fuse? knackered ignition switch? corroded earth? even with a near dead battery I would expect the brake light to work.
That is true! The fact that it has been left for 3 weeks in the lowest temp this year, methinks, corrosion somewhere or battery? I would try jump starting before spending money............
Good points...tried jumping and still nothing. Fuses 8 and 10 (the 5A ones) were blown, will replace, but those are not main ignition fuses, those all seemed OK. Where is the battery to earth contact point? And how do I test the ignition switch? Main battery terminals seem OK - corrosion across bike is minimal given the age
Fuses 8 & 10 are position / parking lights looking at my manual (Haynes). Not sure why that would stop you starting the bike
Have checked fuses - main battery fuse has +12V going to it (fully charged battery in there), the ignition fuse has 2.XV going to it when switched on (0 when switched off, so the ignition switch works). Bit stuck...
Going back to square one....... If you switch on but have no ignition lights etc., you either have a totally dead battery or an ignition switch/main fuse problem. Step 1 is remove the battery and walk it to a local garage who will have a load tester. It will indicate amperage under load rather than mere volts. Step 2 Once you have proved the battery is ok and checked the fuse I would switch ignition on and check for current from the +ve low tension side of your coil to the frame (earth). You should get near battery voltage. The main earth strap is on the underside at the back of the gearbox next to the swingarm. This will prove everything up to the starter circuit.....but you should be seeing instrument and headlights as well. Step 3 is ignition switch terminals. A good blast of WD40 in the keyhole first ....... If you get this far with no joy come back for Step 4!
While trying to figure out where the ignition coil and ground strap were on the bike before my fingers froze, I thought I would give the contact cleaner in the ignition barrel a 2nd go. I had tried yesterday...but today I gave it a lot more wiggling. And voila, problem sorted. At least I have a nice new battery now and a spare... Thanks fellas! Really appreciate the help!
It’s always the simple fix!! Great news but I’d keep an eye on that one as you don’t know what’s happening inside there.
The little flap that usually is closed seems to be stuck open...which probably isn't ideal in a country that rains as much as the UK!
Those switches hate water. Contact cleaner is better than WD40 for cleaning but WD40 is a better lubricant and protector. Don’t forget the WD stands for water displacement.........
I relocated my ignition switch to the left side under the tank so it’s protected when on the side stand
Well...after a few days of rain, it's back at it again - this time contact cleaner, WD40 isn't having any joy. I am guessing I am looking at replacing the ignition barrel at this point?
