Morning All, after a bit of advice on my 2004 Daytona 600. A few months back i was out on the bike and met up with some friends went out for a good few hours stopped for petrol and then when i went to start the bike it just wouldn't turn over, Tried to bump and that didn't work. So i sorted out my bike trailer and took home, i ordered a new battery and fitted and the bike started up first time. (Thought that fixed the problem) Any how same situation been riding the bike fine for the last few months on way to work last night i pulled up to get fuel and then the bloody bike wouldn't start up again. This time as out on my own i couldn't get the trailer, so used my breakdown and when they turned up the jumped the bike and i was able to ride home, about a mile from home all dials stopped working and the bike became very juddery, so i just pulled over and stopped. I managed to get home and bring back the other charged battery i had so managed to get the bike home ok. Could anyone tell me were i go from here ? I'm not too sure how to check what maybe wrong first, after a few searches on here I've read it could be the Stator or Rectifier ? so my question is how do i check if these are not working without just replacing them ?! any help very much appreciated ! Thanks Chris
Got a cheapy multimeter? Test 1 is a simple voltage check across the battery terminals with the engine running. You should get a reading of about 13-14 volts that 'proves' your charging system is working. On switch off you will get 12-12.8 volts depending on battery condition. If the charging system checks out the fault is in the battery. The charging system comprises two elements: the alternator (which generates alternating current - hence its name) and the regulator/rectifier that converts alternating to direct current (DC) which the battery uses and prevents the battery being over-charged. Watch It is far more likely to be the reg/rec as the alternator is fairly bullet proof unless you have a rare winding failure. You also want to use your multimeter for continuity testing as older bikes can simply have corroded connections too. Other videos are available!!
Thats great thanks of the info, battery is fine and have now got two ! so both charge and when on bike started or not started it stays around 12-12.7 doesn't really fluctuate at all. I have managed to get to the rectifier, and all cable in and out and all connections are fine, i will have to have a look through the vids in detail as to how best to check this. Thanks again for your advice
Thanks again for this, I've checked the RR and this is checks out ok. Ive managed to get the Stator out and this this burnt out on one side of the ring, looks like i need to get this replaced.
I would highly recommend that you change the rr as well as if the stator goes it will generally take out the rr as well. I know someone who went through 3 stator's before he changed the rr because he thought his rr was ok Very costly
Evening All, Bit of an update for the thread and some more advice needed ! Ive now replaced the Stator for a second time as i turns out the previous one i bought wasn't working correctly. i now have a charged battery, and at idle the battery is getting charged on the Multimeter with 14.0-14.3. What i now need to know is...... When i rev the bike the voltage drops from the above to around 13.1/13.4, is this normal or am i looking at more issues For some reason i was expecting the voltage to increase with the engine running faster ? or should i see a drop due to more drain from the battery ? im now confused even more
Sounds like the R/R is faulty and youre heading for another burnt out stator to me ..... sounds like the R/R is failing under load and what youre seeing is battery voltage !
Thanks for the reply, when i done my voltage checks on the R/R it wasn't under load would this have caused the inaccurate figures ? Ive ordered a new R/R anyway and the new stator has only been on the bike for 10 mins so fingers crossed this hasn't burnt it out
