Help Needed!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Joecav, Sep 24, 2017.

  1. Joecav

    Joecav New Member

    Jul 9, 2017
    0
    1
    Selby
    hi guys

    Managed to put a hairline crack in the sump on my 2011 speed 1050. My intention is to remove it and have it welded

    Have managed to get every bolt off with the exception of two where the swingarm connects to the bike where I can't get a socket in to get one off and another where it fouls the frame. The Haynes manual says the sump can be removed with engine in situ

    Can anyone help?!
     
  2. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,807
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Can you send a picture Joe
     
  3. Joecav

    Joecav New Member

    Jul 9, 2017
    0
    1
    Selby
    its these two mate

    IMG_5610.JPG
     
  4. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,807
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Hi Joe.
    The top one looks like you could get it with a smaller 1/4" drive socket, failing that use a stepped ring spanner.
    Can you create any more clearance by moving the swinging arm to get at the bottom bolt ?
    Would the same stepped ring spanner fit onto the bottom bolt ? It looks ridiculously close, otherwise try a very good fitting open ended spanner which may just get it.
    Hopefully the bolts should not be too tight.
    Good luck and keep us informed on progress.
     
  5. Joecav

    Joecav New Member

    Jul 9, 2017
    0
    1
    Selby
    Hi mate, didn't think of a stepped spanner but in any case I think it's too deep to get at it if that makes sense. The one closes to me on the photo I can get a driver on but it then fouls on the frame and as I understand it the swingarm needs removing with a special tool? Thanks for your help so far mate
     
  6. MickEng

    MickEng Noble Member

    Sep 29, 2016
    1,807
    450
    West Yorkshire
    Depending on the mileage it may pay to overhaul the swinging arm and fit new bushes while you are at it.
    Always annoying when you get an odd bolt that creates several hours additional work.
    I had a Mk 2 Jag and cut out the bulkhead with a sheet metal chisel to get to the bell housing bolts when changing the clutch.
    Did the job in 6 hours as opposed to removing the sub-frame, engine & gearbox.
    Not in the manual but it worked for me.
     
  7. Oldyam

    Oldyam Grumpy Old Git

    May 14, 2017
    610
    500
    ireland
    As @ mickeng says at least one of those you should be able to get with a 1/4" drive set using a shallow socket and "wobble extension" which will give you a bit more clearance with the angle on the extension.
    The other maybe a cheap spanner and a blowlamp and bend it to fit the one bolt just to break it free.

    Good luck
     
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