It should be fine. Most relocations place the ignition even lower down on the front of the frame, either on the left or the right, and they don't need the cable extending. I believe the ignition cable runs to a connector inside the headlamp so you may find yourself trying to feed some additional slack into the light.
Another option is a keyless ignition system, no more keys jingling in the wind scratching paintwork. I've used Digital Guard Dawg systems on two bikes with great effect and no problems. The first system was fitted 7 years ago and it's still as reliable as the day it was installed.
Managed to fit it in about half an hour. Remove the instrument covers by undoing the 4 - 8mm dome nuts and unplug the connectors from the speedo and rev counter. (Pinch the clips and pull hard they are quite stiff). Then remove the instruments and the rubber inserts. Remove the 4 bolts holding the existing bracket in place. Unscrew the ignition switch and reuse the two bolts to attach the double threaded spacers you may need an extra washer in each. Here it is fitted without the instruments - the top two bolts are holding the ignotion switch. Refit the rubber inserts and the instruments - it is best to route the speedo electrics cable behind the ignition wire to allow the cover to fit. All in place Rubber bung supplied to block the old ignition switch hole.
I fitted this mod last year to my T100 63 plate and it has proven to be very good I can now have more than one key on a key ring unlike when it was in the factory fitted location I didn`t realise the damage it was causing to the paint work until too late. My only word of warning is this, when you fit the ignition switch in to the mod bracket the switch becomes upside down ie, the cable from the headlight now feeds into the switch from the top whereas in the factory fitted location the ignition cable feeds from the bottom. I recently had problems and posted on here regarding the T100 being a non starter and after fault finding and trial and error I stripped the ignition switch down and was confronted with a horrid rusty mess and the cable mount had rusted through, resoldered and cleaned up and the bike started. So I have since put some heat sink over the ignition cable and now I have a watertight seal. So please bear this in mind if you carry out the mod.Safe riding,, Mark
Job well done Steve. I certainly like the ignition there rather than down on the frame, it reminds me of 'proper' bikes back in the day.
Good point mark - I have heard of ignition switches corroding out due to water ingress in the normal position so I will be careful here as the opening is as you say now effectively near the top. I have put some silicon sealant around the opening for now!
I repositioned mine to the right, same side as the steering lock. Seems to make more sense to me to use the same (right) hand for both operations, and easier to get at in a less cluttered location.
This was my old T100 with the relocated ignition switch on the RH side. I moved it back a short while later as I never felt it looked quite right on the bike just sticking out there - also I never really felt it was easier to reach than where it was. Someone got an ebay bargain!
I moved mine to the frame position as I hated the pressed steel indicator ears as well as the indicators themselves. Used the black relocation plate and it does not really stand out on the black frame. Its no real hard ship bending forward to use, I changed my bars to flat trackers so I guess I do not get stuck in that total upright position when riding which obviously becomes an issue
