Bonneville T100 brake caliper pins stuck

That was a tip I saw on you tube regarding rounded heads for screws and see no reason why it shouldn`t work for allen bolts, have a look at the you tube vids regarding removal of rounded screw heads, can`t do the linky thing as I am a dumb ass lol

 

Or plus gas it works better than WD40 imv

 

There is a combination of things that get these pins stuck.
1) over tightening, I believe the manual says 12Nm, but it is too tight for my liking, nearer 6Nm for me.
2) insufficient or no copper grease. It needs liberally applying to the thread and entire pin length
3) using a poor quality or worn Allen key, which damages the hexagon socket of the pin.
4) Aluminium calliper to steel pin corrosion (threaded portion of pin)
5) Steel to steel corrosion

To get a stuck pin out:
1) plus gas or Dozers Dads mixture of release agent left on for a good few hours to soak
2) Use an impact driver with a good fitting hex key, taking care not to damage the caliper.
It is the impact/shock that will loosen the thread and break the corrosion not heavy brute force.
If you don't have an impact driver use a socket with a hex key that you can apply force downwards
on the pin rather than just a standard Allen key which applies more of a sideways force and can 'ride' out of the hex socket.
3) If the pin hex socket is totally ruined, you will have to drill the threaded portion out.
4) you can try as DD said getting hold of the pin with mole grips but I seem to recall there is
Insufficient access to get a proper grip.

Good luck and I hope you get them out without too much trouble.
Plenty of copper grease when refitting even if you use stainless steel pins, and not too tight.

 

Fuck it buy a new bike lol only joking.

 

Hey, you get out on your Easter egg hunt! lol

 

I have had this problem with hex head (allen) bolts in the past and I managed to remove them by hammering a socket on to the outside of the round part of the bolt head and using an impact driver. In my experience this works much better than cutting a slot for a screwdriver or using the dreaded mole grips. As said above replace bolts with new ones and use a good amount of copper ease grease.
Hope this helps and good luck.

 

Hi Steve, in this particular case you cant get a socket onto the O/D as the thread finishes sub flush into the caliper. Ref. The picture of the pin Dozers Dad posted earlier in the thread.
If it's buggered unfortunately it will need carefully drilling out.

 

I see your problem, drilling it out seems to be your best solution then, start with a drill as small as you can get away with and increase the size of the bits gradually, as if you do not have it centered properly and the drill slips into the aluminium casting of the caliper (as tends to happen when drilling out steel in aluminium castings) you will damage the thread and have to get another caliper. Take your time with this and good luck.

 

I would start with a drill diameter that just nicely fits into the knackered 'hex socket'
This will centralise the drill perfectly to the pin, all you have to concentrate on then is drilling square to the caliper and to the correct depth.
Work up to the correct tapping size drill or just below.
Take out and measure one of the pins that are free to get your sizes.
You are dead right Steve, extreme caution is required otherwise the aluminium body will be damaged.

 

Andy, are you referring to 'left hand helix' stud extractors ?
Or running a standard drill bit in reverse ?

 

Well found Andy, that is certainly worth trying.
I think if they were more common, they would get mixed up in tool boxes and run clockwise.
Have you ever tried sharpening one ?

 

Good quality high carbon twist drills are the best for normal use.
The Ticn 'gold' plated drills once sharpened lose that few microns thickness coating on the tip leaving the poorer quality drills as soft as shite under the 'fancy' coating.
Sharpening by hand is an acquired skill keeping both flutes exactly the same length and making sure you produce a rake angle which gives you the sharp cutting edge. A good check is to slowly rotate the tip of the drill into your finger tip by hand, it should feel sharp and like it wants to cut.

 

Well done DG great result.

 

The socket holes are loose even when new and a new 5mm allen key is 4.95mm.
So I make up an allen key that is 5.1mm, perfect fit. That way it never ruins the socket.
I have also made up one 5.15mm, 5.2mm and 5.25mm for ones that have been damaged. Never failed to get one out yet.

 

I know this thread is dealing with the rear caliper but the problem with the pin on the front caliper is that it is not a hex head but a screw driver slot. The pin metal is quite soft so your average screw driver will soon damage the pin end. Has anyone got any tips for this pins removal and is there a better replacement? Rich

 

Hi Rich, forgive me saying but the 'pin' you refer to as slotted is not in fact the pin at all - it is merely a short cover approx 4mm which you unscrew. The pin underneath is still an allen fitting.

If the cover is stick you'll need to break it loose by tapping the screwdriver with a hammer to shock it loose. When you reinstall the cover ensure you coat the threads with copper grease.

 

Thanks biglad, I realised it was a cover after i'd posted!!! So it is the cover that is solid, I have had a good knock at it with hammer and screw driver, not budged yet !!

Rich

 

The technique I employ in circs like this is:

Find a good fitting flat blade screwdriver and a medium weight hammer; insert the screwdriver then using light consistent tapping only, give it 50 to 100 taps. It'll break free without damage this way - usually.

 

An impact driver as DD is suggesting is the best way.
Use a good fitting screwdriver with the impact driver and one crack should loosen it. (Make sure you have the impact driver set to anti-clockwise)
The slotted cover screws are only about 6mm long from memory.