I only need one rattle can of paint to touch up the worst spots, so it sounds like my best bet is to go to a motor shop with the mudguard and pick a can of the closest colour.
The delivery is expensive because paint is 'hazardous’! The original colour was called ‘Alaskan White'. John Crichlow who ran ‘Tricolour’ paint shop and still has some original Triumph paints quoted similar shipping costs. See http://www.msmotorcyclesuk.com/index.html
Kin'ell how much? Try these 400ml for £15 check their colour charts to match https://tools-paint.com/avenue-colo...erosols-custom-mixed-colours-400ml-2644-p.asp The land rover alaska white is available as an enamel paint which will come in a 1 litre pot but will need thinning to spray for £33 https://paintman.co.uk/shop/land-rover-alaska-white-lrc909/ Or Nissan do an Alaskan White https://www.paintcolourchart.com/cars/c/018/018dat531.html which you'll be able to get from dealers but it probably won't be the alaskan you are wanting I just mix my own to match as @darkman says, none of them are the same, just depends on what tint you want
Where I live we have a parts house called Lordco they can make you a spray bomb in just about any colour you want for $32.00 canadian.
Oops, looks like I said “Arctic” when I meant “Alaskan”. Well they’re both cold places that start with the same letter.
Put the rear mudguard on, with the nuts and bolts hand tight to allow adjustment later. The touch up to the original paint shows up, but it’s not too bad and it’s in keeping with the “preservation” look that I’m going for, not a rebuild to look like it’s from a showroom.
Well it took a lot longer than expected to clean the inside of the oil tank as there was a thick layer of carbon sludge at the bottom. I got it out by sealing the holes, putting some petrol in with some nuts and screws then shaking vigorously. Rinse and repeat six times before it was clean. If it hadn’t worked I may have used a jet washer. Next step is prepare to paint the back of the tank. The front will be polished up with T cut.
Great job, sadly people never clean out the tank and gauze filter when changing oil and sludge builds up in the bottom of the tank over time.
The rear end of the chain guard. At some point the chain has rubbed through and the remaining metal is paper thin. It is too delicate to fill with braze, but because it is non-structural I intend to use car body filler and a piece of metal to strengthen it. Body filler is not really the way I want to go, but it’s easier than cutting the bad piece out and welding a new section in (which would still need filler at the join). Maybe a second hand one could be sourced, or even a new one but I am trying to keep the cost down.
@darkman - that’s the right answer! I remember my mates filling rust holes in their cars with lead solder in the days before epoxy fillers. I was thinking of going down that route, but your suggestion is better.
FYI, Justin Harvey-James, the author of the Tiger 90 book https://triumph-tiger-90.com/ , is going to have a small stand at the Stafford show next weekend.
The lighting switch in the side panel should be marked OFF, LOW and HIGH. This one is marked IGN, OFF, EMG, but it has the correct pins and connections except one.
