Ride a Sp3 SE and looking for some assistance. Bike has just started having starting issues. Battery okay, electrics okay but when starting will only churn once before cutting out. This will repeatedly happen. Any ideas?
Lots of battery issues emerge this time of year as the temperature drops and they tip over the edge. Mine did 2 weeks ago...... Just remember voltage (think speed) is only part of the story. You also needs amps (think weight). Older batteries will show a healthy voltage but no longer throw out the amperage of their youth (a bit like me) and in lower temperatures and then fail to .......
Thanks for the tips. Battery is on an optimiser and when tested showed 12.7v. The only other test was to try all indicators, lights, horn etc, they all worked. All dash lights as well. Will get drop tested. Thanks.
Put it this way, if you jump start from a non running car battery and it roars into life then your bike battery is shot......and once running, disconnect car and check voltage across bike terminals. It should spike at about 13.7V if blipped and the charging circuit is healthy.
Tested as suggested with car battery and roared to life. So, bought new battery. Is back up and running. Thanks for the advice. Pat
Back again. New battery worked for awhile now ignition comes on but when starter pressed nothing happens - no click,no turnover, absolutely nothing. Afters few presses on starter it will randomly kick into life. No issues when running. Any thoughts
It sounds like a poor contact (battery connection/earth strap/starter switch) or you have an ignition lockout switch sticking - clutch or sidestand.
Check the voltage across the battery when the engine is running. The multimeter needs to read 13.8+ volts Mine steadies at 14v above 3,000 revs Anything else and the stator or rectifier could be fault resulting in the battery not charging properly I had a bad stator/rectifier and it had 16v going through the battery amdxwas absolutely cooking it
Thanks guys. I have checked starter switch and kill switch both appear to function properly. Will check other elements and report back. Thanks.
Had a root around and did two things and she hasn't played up yet. First used my spare key on the of chance that the immobilizer wasn't been deactivated by the other key. Also found a connector leading to the earthing point that was squashed between the coolant bottle and the frame. Repositioned so now free. Don't know if either of these actually make a difference but is now working okay.
