Hi all. Talking T120 specifically but applies to others aswell. Just wondering how you all line up the rear wheel after say adjusting the chain? Are modern bikes and manufacturing methods/tolerances good enough nowadays to just use the dots on the swing-arm or do you use other methods? A few mm at the slider can make a big difference at the wheel edge. Years ago i remember they were regarded as being generally unreliable.
Hi Jboy, I use a straight edge such as a steel rule on the rear sprocket and line it up with the chain. If the rule and chain are parallel, you're good to go.
Like this guy said ^ I never trust the dots or counting the threads etc. Too tight to buy a lazer level too.
I always measure swing arm pivot to spindle. Believe it or not, the sprocket/chain isn't always inline with the wheel.
On previous bikes I used two long lengths of wood (2" x 1" x 6'), I would zip tie the lengths to the rear wheel as near tothe centre as I can and when aligned to the front tyre it can easily show any variance. Plus it would also showed if the wheels were not in line, such as the rear being slightly to one side compared to the front. I never trusted the lines on the swing arms.
Whats wrong with using the flats on the adjuster bolts, more of a problem torquing the wheel spindle with the silencer in place. Thinking of hand torque on the T120!
Not tried it yet but will do soon on the tiger, I'll line it up by the dots then see if there's any difference using the laser.
Update. Went into the garage today armed with mug of tea, fishing line, heavy blocks of wood , nails/hammer and a tape measure! After about an hour of grubbing about on the floor I can report the following...... My LHS adjuster dots were 1mm ( or 1 full turn of the adjuster bolt head) out compared to my RHS (sprocket side) one . This was measured when I Had the front and rear wheels lined up perfectly. Now, before anyone says I realise that tyres dont always sit exactly the same on rims and that spoked wheels in particular can have some run out BUT overall I thought that was Excellent really. I did spin the wheel and vary its position a few times just incase. At the rim of the rear wheel the 1mm worked out to be more like 3mm, it doesnt sound much i know but i could see the wheel cocked ever so slightly as i looked down the fishing line. It was clear to see as a gap against the rear tyre wall aswell. Anyhow, I have put a dab of red paint onto the bolt faces so that in future when i adjust i can do both the same and ignore the dots. There certainly appears to be no rear wheel offset at all and it all looked nice and square to me. It was worth doing for peace of mind if nothing else. Hope this reassures you. Seems to be very well made.
Hi. I started this thread to canvas thoughts and wondered whether modern bikes are more accurately put together than say 20 years ago when i started riding. I know its one bike out of hundreds of T120's but Having done this I would say yes. I have done the same thing many many times and some bikes have rear wheels offset (harleys), some frames just aren't square, some are so out i have actually decided i cant live with it (ocd) and traded them on. I cant easily describe in words how i measured up but i can say i did it properly and carefully. Many years ago i did a degree in mechanical engineering so i am confident in my ability. If you were here you would go, yea 'i get that'. I agree that you do need a starting point and the dots certainly give you that. Thanks for all the replies.
