..any suggestions how to remove a stubborn top nut on the top yoke....needed to change the head bearing? Mine has seemingly been tightened by an ape. I got the proper Triumph tool...but it bent! It's the nut that has the 6 pin holes ... The tool only has two pins though....it would be good if the tool had 6 pins.... I have a fear I'm going to have to wreck the nut to get it budged, but thought I'd seek sage advice on the off chance...
With apologies to purists...... The Nut is already marked so Penetrating oil and leave overnight then try drifting with a heavy engineer’s screwdriver (flat blade with exposed tang at handle). Get the best tangential angle to give enough bite at the holes in the Nut - you are now going to tap it with a lump hammer! Alternatively wrap the Nut with a few turns of duct tape and try a Stilson (pipe wrench). You may get teeth marks.
If you have an angle grinder - check to see if the disc spanner tool will go near. They are a sturdy pin spanner.
Thanks both.... I tired a pin spanner orignally ...but no joy. I got the pukka tool from Triumph...and that didn't work...in fact...it broke(!) and that is what then damaged the nut... So, I think I'll get it off 'somehow' then get a new nut. Interestingly, the Triumph tool is £25. A new nut is £9....?...
You could leave it soaking in penetrating fluid for a day and try one of these :- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-5281-Adjustable-Pin-Wrench/dp/B00ALTYPPG It looks a bit stronger than the flat plate type pin wrenches?
Thanks Adie. I tried that too. And...because of the actual design of it all....getting penetrating oil to the thread (also tried) is almost impossible .... I'm not nit-picking the advice, I am, as ever, grateful, it's just turning in to a pain in the botbot!! I think a club hammer sounds favourable so far. It fu*#ing deserves it!!
Yep, I realise that's what you were recommending - and it's looking like the best option, but it WILL require a lot of careful covering of the yoke itself and everything in the near vicinity in case it slips. There's very little shoulder on that nut for even the stilsons to hang onto and those handlebar risers look mighty close! The angle of the yoke will also mean that the stilson is perilously close to the tank and there'll be little movement range available. A bit of foam pipe lagging on the handle might be a good idea. I'm thinking your idea of driving it out slowly with a lump hammer and either 'drive through' screw driver or a large pin punch will be the safest way to go.
Thank you all ! The tank is off, so that's a bonus (valve clearances).... but I heed (and value) all your input.
Agreed. I would probably strip the bars down and remove the tank IF I could not slacken with my 4lb lump! I might even try a nut splitter.
try a pin punch at an angle in one of the 6 holes, also a bit of heat wont do any harm (just remember the ignition wires are close by) or a small cold chisel and dig it deep into the nut. That should at least get it moving.
try a pin punch at an angle in one of the 6 holes, also a bit of heat wont do any harm (just remember the ignition wires are close by) or a small cold chisel and dig it deep into the nut. That should at least get it moving. Oh nearly forgot a good lump hammer but you knew that anyway
I had the same problem on my Daytona, it had been tightened by a gorilla. I got it off with a hammer and punch, then bought a new nut and a proper six pinned socket to torque it up with.
Thank you all! Job done with the just about still usable Triumph tool and pressing down hard on a windy-gun.... No corrosion or anything...just done up last time by a spanner; using a spanner An eventful few hours, lots learned. Head bearing changed. But torqued up correctly... (Still need a new one though).
