so some will be fine while others will slip other than that it makes no difference.[/QUOTE] So are we all agreeing that this is a significant difference then?
I reckon you are right. As you are probably aware George Orwell predicted a time when people would no longer want to know the truth, only confirmation that what they believed was the truth. A quick scan of the Interweb will reveal that we have clearly reached that time!
Back in the 70 oils didn't have the same spec or the same friction additives they do today...you could say that engine design and materials have evolved in line with oils...or vice versa, Aside from clutches being wet and different types of friction materials that's the only essential difference between car and bike engines...always has been..... the trouble is some of those friction materials by there very nature are made to resist oils so those would be the ones that will happily put up with car oil additives...trial and error/lucky dip i guess.
Respectfully disagree. Motorcycle specific oil is specified in every OEM bike manual I have ever seen for a reason. But owners should do what they feel is best for their ride.
Yes dry clutches are just that...no oil and because of this the friction material used is quite different..if that becomes contaminated with oil from say a failed oil seal it will slip.
That's simply because most manufactures have affiliations with oil companies due to research and development of engine technologies and as a result recommend certain brands, but you will find with most that the oil itself has the same spec as car oils apart from the specific type of friction modifiers that are added to SOME car oils...and then its not always the case that the clutch friction material will object to these additives as certain types will be immune.
So the base oil (crude) out of the ground is the same irrespective but it depends how much its been manipulted in processing. A cheapo oil has probably been less so whereas premium products like say Magnatec in DDs post is probably best to be avoided. Me; I will stick to what I think is most appropriate.
So the base oil (crude) out of the ground is the same irrespective but it depends how much its been manipulated in processing. A cheapo oil has probably been less so whereas premium products like say Magnatec in DDs post is probably best to be avoided. Me; I will stick to what I think is most appropriate.
Look: with modern oils most Bike engines, unless they have a failure due to manufacturing defect, will make 100k irrespective of oil used; as long as it is changed regularly and that includes use of car or bike oils
Let's throw an extra dimension into the discussion mix, just to see how this will divide opinion. Consider buying a fully synthetic, motorcycle specific, high specification/standard (API SL; JASO MA2) oil from what, I suspect, will be an unknown-to-most supplier :- https://www.smithandallan.com/produ...an-limitless-ultra-4t-10w-40-fully-synthetic/ £14.16 for a 5 litre bottle. Even with postage that would still be £8+ cheaper than 4 litres of Shell Advance Ultra 4T from Opie. No doubt there'll be rumblings about "never heard of 'em"; "can't trust an unknown"; "wouldn't risk my motor on it" etc., etc. But, if it had SHELL on the bottle, you might, yeah? Smith and Allan blend oils for Shell.
With no problems, one assumes? Ever thought how much you've (potentially) saved over the years compared to the cost of "branded" products of the same type/spec.? I'm about to put a big order in fro bulk oil for the bikes and cars - fortunately I have the room to store the stuff!
I buy whoever has the cheapest oil sat the spec I need, Don't get too fussed about the names. There are about 8-10 maybe less refineries in the uk so who refines the oils we use??
I'll be ordering a mixture of stuff for cars and bikes but all the motorcycle lubricant prices are on here :- https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-motorcycle/
We might convert him yet, DD. You and I both know it makes sense we just have to proselytise more ...
