Emisions control

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by H.O., Jan 17, 2016.

  1. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    Is there any point in taking off the emissions control on my 2003 Bonnie, on my Enfield taking it off did give it a bit more power (not hard!) but there's plenty of power for what I need on the Phoenix, (risen from the ashes of the 2002 Hinckley fire).
    Plus side, seems it runs hotter, possibly the right temperature as Triumph intended which gives me a better tick-over and with the head tubes removed gives better access to the plugs, minus side some say it runs cooler which is better and gives slightly more power.
    It has been on there for 23450 miles without any problems to previous owners, but apparently I can stuff a marble or bolt up the tube that goes into the air box to see the effect which I may do.
    Any comments?
    Cheers
    Terry
     
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  2. thebiglad

    thebiglad Old fart, still riding !

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    Hi Terry, I suspect you are talking about the Air Injection system which allows fresh air to enter the head aft of the exhaust valve, to burn off any unburnt exhaust gases in the headers.

    With this system fitted there are several negatives:

    1. The throttle response is a bit snatchy at very low throttle openings - when manouvering for example;

    2. Popping and banging in the exhausts on over-run is very common and most noticeable with aftermarket exhausts;

    3. The bike runs hotter than it needs to.

    4. Access to the spark plugs is very restricted.

    I can't honestly think of any real advantages to the system with carb'd bikes,so I always recommend removal.

    If you want to remove it I can walk you through how it's done.

     
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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2016
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  3. Scoot65

    Scoot65 Well-Known Member

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    I took my Speedmaster's air injection system off. It was really easy using Delboy's Garage video (posted above) as a reference. Once you look at what you have to remove it pretty much self explanatory / obvious. I got the air injection removal kit from Triumph Twin Power.
    It also makes access to the spark plugs much easier!
     
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  4. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    I've looked into a bit, seems like Nissan Micra sump bolts fit the head very nicely.
    No point in doing any of this until I change the air filter, last changed 03/08/05 by Mick!!!!!!!!!!
    In a filthy state, how many times has the bike been to a dealer for service and this not replaced I wonder, but probably charged for?
     
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  5. Scoot65

    Scoot65 Well-Known Member

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  6. steve lovatt

    steve lovatt Something else

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  7. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    Haha, like the traffic warden bit!
     
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  8. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    Mine has two blanking plugs already fitted on each side, 1 on the manifold & 1 on the carbs.
     
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  9. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    Checked out mine again, looks like a small tube goes to the inside of each carb, apparently if you link the 2 carbs with one tube you will get better balancing, I'll give it a go.
    2 Nissan micra sump bolts @ £4.50 a pair, arrived today (be careful, there are 2 sizes,) waiting for the 13mm cranked ring spanner and air filter to do the job now.
     
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  10. H.O.

    H.O. Noble Member

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    Got the spanner today, so I was able to do the job, not that I needed it, I could have got an open ended in at a slant and turned it, the tubes were not in tight at all!
    Sods law prevails!
    2x Nissan Micra sump bolts fit perfectly, no shortening needed, joined the 2 carbs at the manifold with the thin pipe that came off the front of the unit to the carb, using the rubber joining tube to plug said tube to manifold (that threw me as I got the impression it was the carbs that needed blanking/joining). There is less to take off on a carb version, no solenoid to zip tie on, no electrical plugs to put resisters/jumpers on, job took me 20 mins top after seat/tank removal.
    Didn't really need to remove the reed valve unit but it will give me more room to remove cam cover when needed.
    Bike started and runs smother, had to re-set the tick over, so far no popping on rev run down, will be taking it out tomorrow.
    Total cost for bolts and spanner: less than £7, well worth it.
    I will still need the thin wall 18mm socket for the plugs but at least I can see what I'm doing now.
    Thanks for all the help and advise, getting to love this bike!
    Terry
     
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