OK so repeat after me Kali-Ann is a dim bint!!!! Number three pot exhaust studs have effing sheared #@££#\%££# thing. Threads are #&£#%# (copper slip anyone???) Tried drilling them out no joy, really don't want to fork out for a new head, any ideas? And to add insult to injury I have snapped a nail £34 on a Mani wasted OMG!!! Steel metallic UV Gel!!!!!! BTW also looking for a decent porting kit my burs are so old, the inlets and exhaust ports look like they were built by Mr bean's thicker brother my ex husband had less ridges on ass!! Thanks Kali-Ann xx
Thanks hunni, nope well down so #\##£@\ off looks like I may have to go down the helicoil route don't believe that they will hold though. I have thought getting the holes filled with weld and rebore? Checked new heads eeekkk mental . Kali-Ann x
I haven't tried the mixture that DD has suggested, but there are a ton of YouTube videos from people that have used it with very positive results. Depending on what the end result is (damaged threads in head), you might have the option of using a Helicoil instead of replacing the head. You would probably be wise to take it to a machine shop to do this for you. I don't know the cost of this compared to buying a new head. You can see a quick video of the helicoil at this link. There are many others on YouTube.
tricky to get good result diy use cobalt drill bits and take plenty of time,if bolts flush even if one side is ok try using header clamp as a drill guide if possible,unless ur confident be wise to get it done for you avoiding damage and big costs.
Cut your losses and take it to a proffessional https://www.yell.com/biz/euro-precision-components-birmingham-6386564/
agreed but if she is not confident in her skills best bet pay someone to do it then its their responsibility.
I don’t know anyone who has seriously wielded a spanner who has not, at some time, sheared something. The problem with steel bolts in alloy heads getting hot and showered with salty water is a mix of normal oxidation and galvanic corrosion that creates something akin to a weld. Penetrating oils of your preferred recipe can work wonders but nothing beats heat that creates differential expansion and cracks the grip. I too would recommend taking the head to a professional who will whip the old studs out easily enough.......not because you are a dim bint but because they have the facilities. Good to know the term ‘bint’ (literally ‘daughter’) is still in use in the West Midlands ......the only question in my mind is why? Is it a hangover from 18/19C soldiers with Egyptian/Sudanese experience or more local Arabic speakers?!! Finally, anyone here remember the TV comedy ‘I didn’t know you cared’ where the late Liz Smith as the mother of the family fettled her Honda 500-4 in the middle of the living room? A mighty role model!
Shame you didn’t live nr me as I’d have it about before a coffee could be drunk! No matter how flush the snapped bolt is, it needs an engineer to weld a large blob onto it then it needs ‘shocking’ in the direction of the stud whilst hot then weld an old bolt in line with where the stud would have been then spanner it off.
When it’s repaired by whatever method put steel studs in and use brass nuts to tighten. The brass nuts will in future if they become stuck shear off before damaging the steel studs.
Just for those that don’t understand the reasons why. Brass is a very brittle metal compared to others, the steel will be more resilient than the brass. So if you were to overtighten the brass you would strip the treads on the brass nut leaving them to fall off. Just don’t round the brass nuts off when you do it use a six sided socket ( impact driver ones would be good) and either use a breaker bar or impact driver.
Obvious using normal methods first before going to that step. Personally using the acetone mixture or the likes of plus gas first, then if that doesn’t work try heat either with a hot air/induction heater/blow torch before the stripping method.
