From another post I followed this advice today - so far: I did wire directly from the battery -ve terminal to the transistor box white wire. I got a spark in each plug, and got it to start. At first it sounded ok, but then it went back to the way it was running previously, seeming to misfire on one cylinder, run rough and smoke a bit - the problem I've been trying to fix all along. The ignition switch was not a problem before, but obviously it is now too. So I guess this narrows it down - ha - to a problem with the BB wiring/electronics or something not electrical?
Really at a loss, would be great if i was just around the corner to have a look lol. Clutching at straws my only thoughts are a sticking open valve or to tight a valve adjustment gap as you have eliminated all other possibilities.
On another post I hade the valve issue brought up. I suppose it could be something like this. The whole thing started after a long ride some months ago and I first thought it was the carb. But now that is rebuilt and no effect. I'll need to see how to troubleshoot the valve problem now.
Here is a link to a YouTube video of my bike running today - in case any members can diagnose from the video. Thanks!
hi,probably a bit late in the day to reply,but i had a very simular problem with my 1970 T120,tried everything but cured it in the end by doing away with the boyer bransden electronic ignition.went back to the old points/condenser system.it fixed the problem.cheers greasemonkey
Thanks for this reply. I am thinking that there may be a problem in the boyer - so will need to isolate each piece now. I'll let you know - thanks again!
