As always fellas a plethora of useful answers.......More than enough to keep me busy tomorrow........I do love this forum,...................I'll start early tomorrow and update as I proceed........Thanks again......... Legends to a man......
And the update is..!!!!!!!!!!..........stud still well and truly seized in.....although having tried all the above, except for drilling it out.....never was any good at that....it now looks a little more mangled than it did at 10.30 this morning.... Just sent for a roller type stud extractor so a little bit of patience till the new year and on with cleaning and polishing the exhaust.............Happy New Year fellas...have a good one... ....................................................................Jennoe............................................................................................................................................................
Then if no joy, drill and easyout extractor. For me,final straw is weld a nut onto the stub. I was going to say that
can you make a cup with blue- tac and leave it filled with WD40 just top up over New Year. drill out means start with a small bit and make sure you get dead-centre and straight, then it is slowly move up in size one step at a time, biglads left handed drill bits are a great option, cos as your drilling you might slacken, 2 for the price of 1.
Like the idea of the blue tac........be on that in the morning. Leave it till the extractor arrives..........trying to avoid drilling it out if I can.....to be honest even the thought frightens me to death.........cheers fella...
Good advice jtd If I could just suggest before drilling if that route has to be finally taken I would saw the stud off level to reduce the amount of drilling. Make sure the stud is nice and flat on top and centre punch the stud dead centre before starting to drill. Use the depth of the hole without the stud in to gauge how deep to drill. To gain confidence practice drilling a bolt held in a vice.
I have a sneaking suspicion I'll be drilling and extracting........if I'm forced to go down this route does anyone know the tap size for retapping.........just so as I'm prepared...????........
some light reading,dont look if you dont like horror stories. ( happy ending though) http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=2330.0
Hi Jennoe, You need to know what size the outside diameter of the stud is and the thread pitch. You will be able to get this from the good stud.
ATF......being Automatic Transmission Fluid............and Acetone.........being Nail Varnish Remover...............???????????
Be careful using acetone, it completely ruins polycarbonates and most other plastics/rubbers. Do not spill on your paintwork as it will remove any lacquers and dull the paint finish, leave it on long enough and you will see bare metal. It is supplied in glass or aluminium containers for good reason.
Hi DD You are absolutely bang on with that type of plastic for certain liquids etc. HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) is used for fuel tanks etc. The triangular recycling symbol moulded into the product will read HDPE If anyone is transferring acetones etc. from the original container they should bear this in mind. Great forum for sharing info.
MacGyver was a must see for fellas my age back in the day..........always found a way.......sometimes with just playdoh and and nail varnish remover...............sound familiar.......
Got to admit, I had never heard of MacGyver until now. Thought it may have been another acronym being thrown into the arena. Sounds like a good guy to know, certainly got me thinking on the paper clip and duct tape.
Hi Jennie, If all fails, you could find an Engineering Workshop that has a "disintegrator" that would be a machine that is similar in some ways to a drill press. But the drill head is replaced by the "disintegrator" which is a form of ARC welder adapted to burning out threaded studs and snapped bolts ! It uses a hollow electrode through which passes distilled water, as arc strikes the water boils and blasts the molten steel out !!! Only problem here is you have to remove cylinder head. But it is very accurate and in hands of a good operator is almost totally safe ( had to use this method 30yrs ago on a Laverda) worked a charm and I learned all about valve timing/adjusting/setup..!
