Dyno TuneEcu Advice Please

Hi there mate, not quite sure what you want here? If you've got TuneECU and it's cable you could install a new map yourself at no cost ?

If you go here and scroll down the list 'til you get to your bike and then select a map with the matching configuration to your own bike:

http://www.tuneecu.com/Custom_Tune_list.html


PS Just as a matter of interest, what is it you are wanting to achieve. You've only changed the exhaust so not mahoosively different to standard trim?

 

Steve Jordan near leatherhead have had good reports here
Red Thunder used them not so long ago, I think he replied to some one else's query on here somewhere

 

I understoof the ECU on a 2011 Speed Triple is locked, and any attempt to access it through unofficial means could wipe it rendering it useless...would be good if this is wrong, but is what I have heard.

 

Have you tried a "Reset adaption", you might be surprised at the improvement. This can be done via TuneECU in which case you see a confirmation that it's completed, or it can be run by simply starting the bike on the sidestand being careful not to touch the throttle and let it run up to normal temperature and continue to idle for about 12 minutes (the fan will probably come on). This process allows the ECU to reset (within limits) to suit the engine, I've found this to cure a jerky throttle response in the past.
I'm assuming you've got the correct map loaded, I guess the exhaust is just a slip on still with OE headers, in which case I'd suggest the "Arrow slip on" tune would be suitable (check out the TuneECU web site for the correct tune for your VIN)
Could save you a lot of money, with no extensive engine mods the Triumph tunes should be fine.

 

With modern engines the lambda sensor in the exhaust takes care of the mixture and just fitting a can would not create a huge problem, but a reset often can sort snatchy throttle action.

 

Please excuse my contradicting statement, but I understand the Lambda sensor will adjust the mixture to ensure it meets environmental requirements, this usually results in the mixture running leaner than the ECU intends it to be.

This causes the bike to run erratically, all be it at a rather minimal level, but is more noticable at lower revs.
The first mod some pilots do is to remove or plug the sensor, meaning the engine runs as per the ECU which is richer and smoother

I understand the sensor is a legal requirement for the manufacturer to install, but not illigal for the pilot to dissable. Could be wrong on this though :/

 

The 1050 Speed triples up to 2016 are not ECU locked, the latest version '16> may well be locked (haven't checked, but doubt it is covered by TuneECU).
I have personally re-mapped my 2015 '94R with the Triumph Arrow map (using TuneECU) and had no problems, you only get potential problems if you ignore the advice on TuneECU's site and let the voltage drop too low while uploading a new map to the ECU. Even then there are recovery procedures, but you don't really want to go there!
Yes you can kill an ECU, but generally only if you do something silly.... that's then going to be a very expensive mistake!
So yes the ECU can be re-mapped with a custom tune on a dyno if the operator knows what he's doing, but make sure you tell him exactly what you're looking for.

In any case you say you already have the Arrow map loaded, but there are probably two variants for your bike (depends on VIN number) - with or without secondary air injection disabled. You need to find out which they loaded (or check yourself via TuneECU).
If the SAI disabled map is loaded you need to check they've actually done that, both in software (can see it in TuneECU) and physically by blocking the hose to the air box, it's a common mistake for one or both to be forgotten.
With SAI disabled you don't get the pops and gurgles from the exhaust on the overrun, and the first throttle opening tends to be a little smoother.
If it still gurgles on the overrun you've probably got the SAI still active map (which is ok),... or the SAI valve and hose are still active with the other map loaded (not ok).
If you haven't already, check you've got a clean filter and new/correct plugs (engine is quite sensitive to plugs) as that will also make a difference (and needed anyway if you're going for a dyno tune).
Was it a new '16> bike you're comparing with? If so yes they are a shade more refined/smooth off a closed throttle....
but also a shade more bland IMHO.

More info on adaptive fuel systems here
and engine management systems here

 

I concur with all these points. The O² sensor sends information back to the ECU in a 'fine tuning mode' style of operation, within the range of the built-in tables. It is not there to take into account any modifications an owner might choose to do.

The O² sensor and the AI system (both candidates for jerky throttle operation) are both items that many owners who are not slaves to the mantra "Manufacturer knows best"

 

If you load a map with the SAI sensor ticked, doesn't that just remove the warning/engine management light from activating saying the SAI is not registering.
To actually stop the SAI you need to remove/blank it off.
?

 

Errr almost. The process I used successfully was: download original map and save to computer. Open said map in TuneECU and untick the SAI box then save map (on your pooter) under a different name: "12345 no sai" for example. Now load this map into your bike's ECU and set it 15 mins tickover jobby (forgotten the name).

Now you can physically remove the complete AI system including all the plumbing and the solenoid, blank off the holes in the cylinder head and Bobby is your Mum's best friend. No faults, no EML's just smooth throttle bliss.

 

Check tuneECU website. It tells you which tunes are right for which set ups ECUs and which VINs. I can't say for certain but I believe speed triple ecus are not locked. Mine is a 2014 bought from new and is not locked. TuneECU works fine. Also the "12 minute tune" is effective.

 

I need to do this. Mine pops and bangs on overrun something awful. I ates it!

 

Just to throw a spanner in the works............
Not sure if it's true for all years (of 1050 Speed) but on mine there is a cat in the horizontal section below the engine which would remain unless you replace the headers. There have been instances where when disabling the SAI and/or O2 sensor the cat in time is damaged (I believe due to unburnt fuel / too low temperature). Most would perhaps not be too worried about this.... but for the fact that it can fail such that it partially blocks the exhaust resulting in significant power loss.
Triumph was aware of this and on the SprintST later moved the cat to a separate link pipe, this allowed it to be easily replaced with a non-cat link pipe when fitting their (also non-cat) TOR can. (I had an'08 Sprint with this mod)

So..... I personally would not recommend disabling SAI or O2 sensor if a cat remains in the exhaust system.

 

Fair point but mines an arrow low boy without a cat.

 

That is why on cars you have a second lambda after the cat to monitor the condition of the cat and yes over fueling will kill a cat