My bike is a, one previous owner, 2008 Bonneville T100 with 5500 miles which had been laid up since 2011 so I am working my way through it. It is fitted, when new from the dealers, with Norman Hyde Togas, K&N air filter, Hi Flo Bell mouth intake and an air injection removal kit, with an Arrow re-map. Although having had bikes for nearly 50 years all this EFI & Re-mapping stuff is new to me as I am used to carbs, so I am looking for a wee bit of help, in the simplest of terms please! I was thinking of changing the silencers, to what I don't know yet, but something a bit different. However on reading up on it people mention if you put on different silencers you have to get it re-mapped, then I came across somebody saying they fitted a different silencer then let the bike run for 10 mins to let the ECU settle with the new configuration. I know it may be a basic question, but I am not used to all this electrical wizardry, so please bear with me. Could someone tell me the difference between a re-map and letting the bike run at idle for a length of time as mentioned above?, I may be getting confused, but if you let the bike sit at idle does the ECU not just tune mixtures and settings to idle speed settings? I would rather ask a simple question than mess things up if I do change silencers. Thanks
Hi, firstly saying it had a re-map is incorrect, when the Triumph dealer fitted the extras, what happens is they upload a different factory map, not a re-map. What takes place with a dealer map is that it allows the correct fuel/air mixture, so the machine rides smoothly. The Norman Hyde Toga exhausts on their own do not require any change, they are fit and go. The rest of the modifications will have limited benefit from the arrow map, however that map is specifically for the approved Triumph Arrow Exhausts. A re-map, or ECU flash as some refer to it, is where the machines ECU is connected to the dynometer on a rolling road, using as an example the Woolwich Racing Map, firstly a reading is taken on the machines stock readings, then that information is stored safely on the system, the map is then customised onto the ECU, the bike is then run up at different speeeds, it shows on the graph the original readings and the new readings on the re map, it takes a half day or more to set it all up correctly, and you can see the difference in BHP increase and smother running. The question you ask regarding the ECU recalibrating itself, this is correct for the newer machines, however, as yours is a 2008 model it will not recalibrate by that method. Changing the silencers will not require any recalibration.
If you change your silencers now, you'll need a new professional remap. Your current Arrow map is specifically for your old setup. The idle trick only lets the computer make tiny adjustments at idle, not across the whole rev range. For different pipes, a full remap is the safe way to go.
Thanks very much for the info. As I have the Hyde Togas fitted I am just wondering if, to keep it simpler for me, I should think about getting a set of Hyde Peashooters which I like and have had on my Commandos. When reading the info on the Hyde site, they both seem to require the same set up so if my bike is set up for the Togas it, hopefully, would be a case of just swapping over. I am sure a number of silencers would fit, are there any type that anyone would recommend?, I don't want them too loud but a shape that would suit the bike. I like the Thruxton shaped ones and can get a pair of 2008/10 ones from a friend who no longer has his bike, there are adaptors that are available to let them fit the T100, but I take it the ECU would need tweaking. Thanks again
The Peashooters look lovely on a Bonneville. Speak with Arthur Macdonald at Moto Legends, he has owned Norman Hyde Ltd since Norman Hyde retired a few years ago. The Norman Hyde partnership still runs, selling his books. Arthur will confirm that fitting the Peashooter exhausts may give some popping on the overrun, but nothing detremental, personally I love that sound anyway. You could always send the ECU to a reputable tuner for a re-map, stating what mods have been done, and a new customised map can be installed. If you want to go that route them PM me, I can let you have details of an excellent specialist that can do it for you. You could ring him and have a chat, he is very bust however, it may take a few days for him to get back to you. Thinking about it, I seem to recall Joe fitted some to a bike he had a few years back, if he reads this he may be able to say how they performed for him.
That's an idea!, any pointers on what's likely to suit there's a good few out there? Thanks for your help especially regarding the ECU , I didn't know it could be done off the bike, I imagined it would have to be running for it to be tuned. I may indeed take you up on your kind offer and PM you for details. It may be a month or two before I have managed to get through everything that needs done on the bike as there is a fair bit of cleaning, changing bits etc. to get it to where I would like it to be. I think a bit of my problem with this is, as I mentioned, I am used to carbs where if I was changing silencers I would play about with some jets and do a plug chop or two if required, but in speaking to a couple of friends EFI is the preferred and best way to go, I'm sure once I get into the way of it I will be fine, "tune and forget" one said. The bike was one owner, low mileage, laid up and at a good price, it was one of those things where I think I would have been daft to ignore it. As I said, thank you very much to everybody for the help!!
Any quality silencers will be fine. I would stay away from the cheap ones, but the Norman Hyde range is fantastic quality. Consider buying the Dealertool, it costs £65 and will enable you to do a fair amount service wise. Have a look at their website, all you need is a laptop running Windows 10 or 11 for it to function. The beauty with the Dealertool is it will not make any changes to your bike's ECU, in effect you can't mess anything up. Hopefully, your machine will be ready for the better weather.
depending how much the generic remap costs it may be more effective to get it on the dyno and have a custom map done which should improve the bike significantly
The only generic map is the Triumph Dealer one, and it is only available for certain exhausts ie Arrow. The Tune ECU maps are ok, but you do need to know a bit about electronics. Some people have uploaded maps to find that the changes to the ECU have resulted in irreversible results, while others have been successful in having the ECU re-flashed, some have not been so fortunate. When I had my STRS done using the Woolwich Racing Map, set up on the rolling road, it took the best part of a day to complete everything. The map removes the oxygen sensor (LS) increases revs, and uprates the temperature range, increasing BHP, more low-down and midrange torque, and an increase in top-end speed, plus a lot more. I recall posting the printouts in a previous post. Having a Triumph Dealer put the Arrow map on will cost around £100, but that map will not take into account any other modifications, such as a K@N air filter and the air induction removal kit etc.
Ahh i am with you now, you mean the triumph maps for race cans, i thought you were refering DNK tuneworks where you send them your ecu and they load a tune into it for your bike. i had my tiger remapped by Andy at jct33, this involved changes to the A/F tables and ignition advance to get the power in the right places. he said that as std triumph maps are hellish lean low down but fuel really well in the upper rev range
Back in the analogue, pre EFI era I had a Dynojet kit fitted to my ‘93 Fireblade along with a Johnson can and K&N filter and had the work done by TTS in Towcester. I could easily have fitted the kit myself, new main jets, new profiled jet needles and softer slide springs but decided to have it set up on a dyno which I’m glad I did because there was a choice of 3 mains and 4 positions on the adjustable jet needles, depending on how exhaust and intake mods work together. It would certainly have run with a DIY setup but for optimising any tuning mods a dyno is essential IMO. Things have moved on, largely due to tightening emission laws requiring ever more efficient fuelling and laptop engine management tuning is certainly easier if you have the right kit and know how but has put an end to DIY bolt on modding and tuning for many. I can also remember derestricting my ‘91 1000EXUP by cutting out the webs in the rubber intake/carb mounts after a magazine (Performance Bikes I think) featured it in an article. No other mods were necessary and it revved out noticeably quicker from around 8k afterwards.
I installed it on a W7 32bit laptop I had spare and it works fine despite the website giving min requirements of W8> 64bit. I was intending to buy a new budget laptop running W10 and tried it on the old laptop with a “nothing to lose” approach so was dead chuffed when it installed and worked OK. The only issue I have with it now is it won’t reset the service reminder on the 1200 as it did on my previous two 900 Street Scramblers. Boo!
Andy at Junction 33 knows his stuff. He works alone, and gets fully booked regularly. He customises some maps of his own, as he would have mentioned, the Triumphs are some of the hardest ECUs to crack, thankfully Woolwich Racing has done some fantastic development work and finally cracked the ECUs for newer models. As you say, Andy can tune an ECU sent by post, to extract the best out of the bike. It is preferred to set it up on the dyno for best results. It does get a little scary when it gets to the redline, especially in top gear. For me I was just after smoother running with more low to mid range torque, the improvements have been fantastic, a lot quicker accelerating, and what it reached MPH-wise on the dyno is crazy. Switching to different end cans doesn't affect it running wise, if the baffle is put in, it just slightly increases the richness of fuelling. UK Race Support has some great kit for updating a bike.
I’ve had fantastic results using TTP maps. Why not contact them once you’ve decided on the silencers and see if they’re able to help and what it’ll cost!
