I have fitted a Denal Sound Bomb Mini to replace the rather quiet std offering. All was fine - tested it and it was great. Then it stopped sounding on pressing the horn button, or, even worse, stayed on constantly and only turned of when the ignition was turned off. The std item was working fine - and has now been put back on. But it now does the same thing Fuses are fine What could be the issue? Thanks
@Mr Moofo only thing i can think of here is the horn button has got stuck in the on or pressed location. You may have to undo the switch and clean it all up or get some plus gas into it. Check one of the horn wires has not got damaged and the horn is fitted properly.
Is the horn powered direct from the switch or does your Triumph do this via canbus? If it's the former then you may have damaged the switch (I suspect the current drain of the Denali will be higher than the OE horn because it's louder) If it's the latter then perhaps disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to see if it resets the canbus system. If that doesn't work it might need plugging into a diagnostic reader to see it there's any fault codes showing and go from there. I have a soundboard mini on my ditchpump, but it's as an additional horn, powered through a Hexezecan not a replacement using the OE wiring
Agree it looks like it might have damaged the switch as it draws more current than the original horn. Are there any warnings in the installation instructions about relays for example?
I would probably start by looking at the horn relay (if it has one) first to check if it is still functioning properly. It is possible that the contacts have fused together due to the higher current draw but the handlebar switch should be ok?
The Denali website says it draws 5 amps The DENALI SoundBomb Mini is EASY to Install https://share.google/9k4OHi9uRtVzfeK7c There are installation instructions on their website, but they don't mention anything about checking the current drain Instructions_TT-SB.10200_rev02.pdf https://share.google/f3QTDMfx1V7cTcgnz
The horn button is merely a make and break supply to the horn. If it is dirty or greasy it could affect the horn on and of.
I have the solution. Having played around with things, I realised the whole left switch gear was playing up - so started to look at removal / cleaning/ refurb. Things got worse when I realised they were sealed units. That said, looking at a YouTube vid, I saw that the electical stuff leading in was push fit and secured by a zip tie ... I thought "What have I done recently to the left hand switch gear?" as stuff like this rarely just "happens" About 5 months ago I fitted some bar risers to the bike - and every thing was fine. I noticed occassionally that the aux driving lights I had would sometimes not switch on. I did what every good home mechanic does - decided it was once off and ignored it. When I fitted the risers, I rotated the bars a little - that has been just enough to "load" the connectors into the switch gear. Rotating the bars back and making sure that there is slack (ish) in the wires means that I have my full beam, indicators, ability to select modes, and my new super loud horn back ! I do these things so you don't have to!
Did you check that none of the insulation has worn through in the wiring harness, especially around the headstock as a result of your DIY bikermate skills?
I did - and it all seems fine. Helped by the fact that the bike hasn't been ridden that many miles since my DIY fiddling
