Featured Touring Our Annual Tour Of The American Southwest: V.2024

Day #5: Pagosa Springs, Colorado to Creede, Colorado to Durango, Colorado Miles: 189

We awoke to a chilly (mid-30's) but sunny morning in Pagosa Springs which made us glad that we'd gone with "Plan C". Plus after riding up and over the pass (twice) it was clear that doing that in the fog and rain would have been unwise (stupid, actually!) By the time we had our coffee and packed the bikes, the weather was perfect. The worst thing we could say about today's weather was that it was a tad windy on the mountain at some points.



The elevation of Wolf Creek Pass is 10,856 feet (or for the rest of the world outside the U.S. 3,309 meters). Wolf Creek Ski Area sits between the pass on Route 160 between the pass itself and the town of South Fork. According to Wikipedia, this ski area is is best known for receiving more average annual snowfall than any other resort in Colorado, at about 430 inches per year.

From Wikipedia


Having never done this ride before, the pass came upon us before we knew it (and was around a curve to boot) so we didn't make a stop at the summit for photos on the ride to Creede. That was unfortunate because by the time we went over the pass again, the pull-out area was packed with cars and we had to pack a bit downhill from the sign. But with some judicious editing, I did manage to get a photo (thank you, Russell) with the pass sign, though without my bike in it.







Once we dropped down off the pass, the road was spectacular and wound us along rivers most of the way to Creede. Steve kept track and said that on today's ride we rode next to or across five rivers: the San Juan, Rio Grande, Animas, Piedras, and Florita. I noted that we rode through three counties: Mineral, San Juan, and Archulate. And we rode through two national forests: the Rio Grande and the San Juan. I love the American West!

Steve has wanted to go to Creede for years and we finally got there. He had just heard it was a cool little town and it's one he never went to even though he lived in Colorado for four years several decades ago. Creede is the most populous town in Mineral County...but that's not saying much because based on the 2020 U.S. Census, the population is only 257! That said, according to Wikipedia (of course) , "in the 19th century, Creede was the last silver boom town in Colorado. It leapt from a population of 600 in 1889 to more than 10,000 in December 1891". Since mining is no longer in this area along with the fact that Creede is really tucked away and off the beaten path, it makes sense that the population plummeted. Plus the main street sits at the mouth of a box canyon leaving really only one road it and out of town. It's hard to imagine what it would be like living here in the winter. That all said, Steve, Russell, and I really like this little mountain town which seems like it is reinventing itself to be a bit of a tourist destination for those who like a bit more quiet experience.





The one hotel in town. We learned that the restaurant recently opened, too, and is reportedly quite good. We just had coffee, knowing (and anticipating!) that we would have a late lunch at Serious Texas BBQ in Durango a bit later.



Steve met this Corgi "shop dog", Lucy, in an outdoor outfitter store. She was a total sweetie-pie!





Day #5 continued in my next post. Back over Wolf Creek Pass and on to Durango

 

Day #5 continued: Creede over Wolf Creek Pass back through Pagosa Springs and on to Durango

Our final destination for today was another favorite town of ours, Durango. Our first order of business as we ride in from the east is to stop outside of town at Serious Texas Bar-B-Q, a seriously good barbecue joint. A major plus is that the outdoor seating area sits above the Animas River, providing a lovely spot to chow down. After that we moseyed over to Durango Harley-Davidson which is only two doors down. It's nice to explore new places...but it's also nice to have a few traditions.





We've been to Durango a number of times but this time we stayed at a hotel we'd not stayed in before, the General Palmer Hotel. Last time we were in Durango we stopped in to take a look around and liked what we saw. So when it came time for me to make reservations for this particular trip, the General Palmer was on my call list. It turned out to be a bit less expensive that the two places we typically stay. And it also turns out that we liked it better than those two!

From the hotel website:
The General Palmer Hotel was built in the Victorian era in 1898, in historic downtown Durango. Within the charm of our historical setting we have added the comforts of modern living. The 39 room hotel is named after General William Jackson Palmer who established the hotel and helped found the railroad.



The lobby
The young men on duty at the front desk when we were there were delightful. But I was so glad that the morning we checked out, Caleb, who had helped me select our room over the phone, came back on duty so I was able thank him personally. Steve and I had a terrific room on the second floor on the back side of the hotel looking out over the mountains that Caleb recommended and booked for us. The narrow gauge Durango & Silverton train depot was nearby and we could see and hear the trains--at just the right volume. Additionally, there was ample and safe parking on the backside of the hotel and we could see out bikes from the windows. Russell was not so pleased with his room but, hey, he uses booking.com so we tease him that he gets the leftover rooms in the basement or empty closets. @Helmut Visor, I do NOT take his advice when it comes to lodging. Well, rarely, anyway.



The library



Part of our view out the back. The view was actually quite a bit more expansive but I wanted to show the train.



After settling in and exploring the hotel a bit, we met up with Russell in the lobby and set out to check out Main Street. All three of us love this mountain town and there are sights and stores that we now make a point of seeing when we're there. These aren't necessarily those particular sights, but I thought they were pretty fun and capture a bit of Durango's spirit.



This old truck has been repurposed as a bar / seating area in an outdoor food truck/restaurant/bar area that popped up onto a vacant corner on Main Street a year or two ago.



Last year we found a new restaurant that all three of us really like. It's called The Durango Pour House and we ate there two out of three nights last time we were here. This year we spent two nights in Durango and this place was only open tonight, our first night in town. So in we went.



I don't even remember for sure what I ate! But I do remember this IPA flight. It was delicious! And just what the doctor ordered after a great day of riding.



Our annual SW Tour 2024 continued in my next posts. Next up, Day #6: The Million Dollar Highway--both directions!

 

I'm glad to hear it Sandi

 

Sandi T.
What a great write up again. And well the pictures are awesome and every one tells a story of their own. Do keep it coming. My favourite read of the day.

 

@joe mc donald

Hi, Joe, and thanks! I'm so glad you're enjoying the write up and photos of our trip. I just love doing motorcycle trips for so many reasons. The interesting sights and wonderful people we meet provide as much of the fun and great memories as the riding itself. As you and many on this forum know full well, seeing the world from the seat of a motorcycle is WAY different than by any other avenue. And it has become my favorite way to travel and explore. At some point today I'll post about our Day # 6 Durango day ride from Durango to Ouray and back again on the Million Dollar Highway. So stay tuned, my friend!

 

Day #6: Durango, Colorado to Ouray, Colorado and back to Durango. Miles: 144
An out-and-back on "The Million Dollar Highway"

Ok, I'm completely frustrated. I just spent over an hour on today's post and the site dumped me out. Aaaaarggh!!! So I'm just going share photos and you can make up your own commentary. Sorry, I'm just done for the day. Not to mention the fact that Tucson is in the middle of a raging monsoon and my husband's new grill that I just bought him for his birthday blew off the porch and is upside down on the ground. And he's fishing up in the White Mountains five hours away. Probably TMI but whatever......l give up for the day.

 

Day #6: Durango, Colorado to Ouray, Colorado and back to Durango. Miles: 144
An out-and-back on "The Million Dollar Highway"

Ok, I'm done. I just spent well over an hour on today's post and I got dumped out of the site and ALL of my commentary just went "poof" and disappeared. So I'll just add the photos which still show up and you can just "read between the lines". This was the most fun I've had doing commentary, too, so I'll just have to be content with knowing what I wrote for myself. Sorry.......SHITE!!!!!!!!!


















And for those of you who checked out my photos from today, here's the other reason I'm a little cranky (UNDERSTATEMENT!) A major monsoon (including hail) just blew through Tucson and this is what happened to my husband's new Weber grill that I just bought for him for his birthday. And he's up in northern Arizona with Russell on a fishing trip. I think I need a martini........ Double AAARRRGH!!!



I'll write about the rest of our day in Durango mañana...after that martini and a good night's sleep. Right now I'm going out to assess the grill damage.

 

One of my best friends here in Albuquerque spent part of his childhood living in the Plaza Hotel. He is 14th generation New Mexican, descended from the Spanish conquistadores. We had breakfast together this morning.

 

But he's a great guy.

 

Yes he is!!! One of the best!

 

That’s so cool, @Marco Wikstrom! I bet he’s got some great stories and memories.

 

Years ago several friends and I rode our Ducatis to Ouray or Telluride every year to attend "Ducati in the Rockies." The event eventually fizzled after local law enforcement zeroed in on us and started harassing every rider on a Ducati (and every other sportbike during the event). Fun times though. I only got one speeding ticket in all those years, which I fought in a Telluride courtroom and won.

 

He's not only a fine gentleman, but a history buff and I've learned so much about New Mexico history from him.

 

Well, I guess I somehow posted a double dose of photos for Day #6. Ahh, sigh. "Technology". Or perhaps I'm technologically challenged!

For anyone who's still interested, here's the rest of Day #6. A few more photos in Ouray then our evening in Durango.

Ouray:

This was posted in the bar where we had lunch. Love it! I actually qualify to be ID-checked.



This would have been a bar with my name all over it last night.



Lots of cool old buildings in Ouray. This is a somewhat famous hotel in these parts.



The bicycle in front of this shop caught our eyes.





When we arrived back in Durango and had parked our bikes, the narrow gauge train was just coming back from Silverton so I got a great view. This is just on the back side of our hotel.






To top off a stellar day of riding, we had a delicious dinner at one of our favorite restaurants in this town.






The General Palmer Hotel from the back side where our bikes were parked.



Next up, Day #7: Durango, Colorado to Winslow, Arizona--to be continued...

 

@Sandi T: Sorry to read that your post disappeared in a black hole of IT-chaos. Many thanks for your endless engagement to let us other members be part of your great impressions.

 

@Markus

Thanks, Markus. So frustrating but that said, definitely a "first world" problem. Not even a problem so much as a frustrating annoyance. Anyway, thanks for continuing to tune in to this June ride report. I'll post about Days #7 & 8 later today and finish out the trip. I think you'll really enjoy some of what we saw in Winslow this year! What we saw has been there for four or five years but somehow we never heard about it. Super cool! Stay tuned.

 

Day #7: Durango, Colorado to Winslow, Arizona Miles: 297

Follow today's post all the way through to see one of the largest Navajo weavings in the world! It was #1 for years and now stands at the 2nd largest.

A large portion of today's ride was through the Navajo Nation, probably about 2/3 of our total mileage when eyeballing the map. The Navajo Nation lies in portions of Arizona, New Mexico, and Utah and covers approximately 17.5 million acres.



Thanks, Wikipedia


The landscape of the Navajo Nation on today's ride was somewhat bleak yet beautiful. As we rode south on 491 from the town of Shiprock, New Mexico to the town of Gallup, New Mexico, we could the large formation known as Shiprock off to our right. There are no real roads (especially paved ones) that lead directly to Shiprock. But it's a breathtaking sight to behold even from a distance. As we left the town of Shiprock, we were about 10-12 miles away from the Shiprock formation which is considered a "monadnock". I had to look that one up. A monadnock (pronounced meh-NAD-nok) is an isolated rock hill, knob, ridge, or small mountain that rises abruptly from a gently sloping or virtually level surrounding plain. Motorcycle trips are both an adventures AND learning opportunities!

Thanks again, Wikipedia




As we rode on through the reservation there were more formations off to our right (west) while the land stretched out as plains to our left (east). I recall thinking that it all looked rather prehistoric and timeless and it made me feel small and rather insignificant....but in a good way.

We gassed up the bikes in Gallup, New Mexico which is best known (to me anyway) for its Navajo rug auctions. My friend, Robyn, who I told you about earlier in this thread, purchased many a Navajo weaving with Mario when they lived on the reservation some decades ago. Mario was doing a psychiatric fellowship training program on the reservation and going to the auctions was one of their pastimes when they lived there.

From Gallup it's a trudge of about 130 miles on Interstate 40 all the way to Winslow.It was extremely windy all the way to Winslow and it seemed like about 3 out of every 4 vehicles was an 18-wheeler. And the drivers on this particular day weren't all that friendly or even considerate of us on our little motorcycles.

Steve, sans any type of GPS, led us directly from the freeway to the parking lot at La Posada. A couple of years ago a BMW friend of ours with not just one but four GPS's on his bike led us on what we now teasingly refer to as "the realtors residential tour of Winslow". Steve and I are still sort of dinosaurs, preferring paper maps or a big Google Maps view (ahead of the days ride) over an on-bike GPS system. Maybe some day.....

I've shared about La Posada in previous ride reports here on the forum so I'll leave all that out this time around. Mr. Google has great info about this historical and beautiful property if you're so inclined.



I'd wound up booking us a room in the newer addition to the hotel which was--conveniently!--closer to the motorcycle parking area. The two rooms that we always try to book were already taken so I asked the staff person to just recommend a room and put us in that. Wow, this was DEFINITELY one of the nicest hotel rooms we've ever been in! And it's one we will always try to book for future Winslow trips. Most all the rooms are named for a famous person who has stayed at the hotel. Our room was the Ed Ruscha Room. Now Ed so famous that Steve and I had heard of him. But we learned that he's a quite famous artist that still (I think--he was born in 1937 so...) lives in Los Angles. We were told by a Winslow friend that this is her favorite room in the entire hotel but not many people know about it. I'm hoping it stays that way.



One set of photos of famous folks who have stayed here, many of whom have rooms named after them. There was another set with just a many photos on the wall behind me.



A couple of photos of our room to give you an idea. Sorry they're not great pics...







Our room wasn't ready when we arrived and the woman at the front desk said they'd try to expedite it. When it still was taking a long time, she said she would comp our entrance into La Posada's museum. We didn't even know there WAS a museum! So we jumped on that opportunity. The entrance fee was only $5 each and by the time we left the museum we left four times that much in the donation box because we were so blown away by what an amazing museum it was. We'll definitely go back and spend more time there next time we're in Winslow!

"The World's Largest Navajo Rug" and other museum wonders -- continued in my next post

 

Day #7 in Winslow, Arizona continued

I'll pretty much let these photos speak for themselves. The museum had many aspects to it including lots of exhibits about the railroad, La Posada, and other aspects of the town. But what really left us speechless was the Navajo weaving created by a Navajo woman, Julia Joe, and her two daughters over the course of five years. The rug is 22 ft x 32 ft and weighs 250 pounds. It was commissioned by Lorenzo Hubbell and completed in 1937. It is best known as "The Hubbell Rug".











Julia Joe and her daughters in her later years. I believe this was when the rug was brought to Winslow and La Posada.



And just a few more photos of other museum displays









Winslow continued in my next post

 

Day #7 continued...out and about in Winslow, Arizona. And of course, (per the Eagles) a bit of "standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona”, too.

After meeting up with Russell in the lobby after our trip to the museum, the first order of business was getting a bite to eat. And, for me, a local beer. There's a cool brewery right near the famous Route 66 intersection called Relic Road Brewing Co. So that's where we headed. This nod to the "Mother Road" was on our walk to food.



Our table seemed to be made out of the back of the cab and the bed of an old pickup truck!



My IPA and a bowl each of fried pickles and french fries for the table.



Yep, still hot and windy!





"Standin' on the corner in Winslow, Arizona, we're such a fine sight to see!" Well, maybe not that fine. But it's always fun to get a little group photo here.

.
After standing on the corner a bit, we perused a souvenir store across the street and then decided to walk over to see if our Winslow friends, Brian and Lori, were home. I'd emailed Lori a month or so before our trip but didn't hear back. Turns out it was her old business email which she rarely checks. We were in luck! They were both home and Lori said that they'd just been wondering about us and whether we were going to be passing through on our summer trip. And....she checked her old email that morning and saw mine! Very cool. And I don't believe in coincidence. We originally met Brian and Lori maybe four or so years ago while on a summer motorcycle trip. We became friends and try to see them at every opportunity.

Brian and Lori owned The Motor Palace, a super cool place I've previously posted photos of on this forum. Well, they've sold the building and have been moving all of their bikes and memorabilia and old gear and posters and..... They're moving it into their home which is a very cool old brick building about a block from the main Route 66 intersection. It was absolutely wonderful to see them and we're happy we didn't miss them because they have a place in California in the Yucca Valley where they also spend a lot of time.





After the five of us caught up with each other, we agreed to meet up for breakfast in the morning at the Flatbed Cafe which is across from the Motor Palace. Then Steve, Russell, and I moseyed on back to La Posado to freshen up for dinner. Today was Steve's and my 9th anniversary so a bit of celebrating was in order!

We ate at the hotel restaurant, The Turquoise Room. I only took this one photo and none of food but it was, as always, an outstanding dining experience. Including potent and delicious martinis for Steve and me.



Tomorrow Day #8--our last hurrah and home to Tucson

 

Day #8: Winslow, Arizona to Tucson, Arizona Miles: 268

Total miles for our annual June "Tour of the American Southwest" = 1,764

I always feel a little sad when I wake up on the last day of a motorcycle trip. This one was no different. Actually, I did NOT feel that way for our May trip that turned into a bike problem / snow storm / trailering the bike home from Utah trip. Those were definitely "feelings" but not ones of sadness.

This trip went beautifully in terms of our bikes running like absolute champs. Nary a hiccup from that vantage point the whole week. Thankfully!

Our route home... The last 200 miles of today's route from Show Low to Tucson is the same way our ride started a week ago. But on Day #1 we turned east in Show Low and did another 100 miles to Quemado. And this will be the same way that our upcoming trip starts, too. We're heading out on that trip -- 15 days worth! -- a week from today.



Steve, Russell, and I met up with Lori and Brian for breakfast at Flatbed, a great little place just down the street from Standing on the Corner Park and the actual flatbed Ford parked by the park. We'd never eaten at Flatbed before so were eager to check it out. No food pics but it was delicious and we'd go there again.



That's an actual fender and rim on the fence surrounding the outdoor seating area.






After saying our goodbyes, we gassed up on the way out of town and made our way back onto I-40 for about half an hour before turning south through Holbrook. Only one stop along the way to gas up in the town of Globe. As we rode farther and farther south, the temperatures rose higher and higher. Yep, back in the desert again! This was the temperature when I pulled into our garage.



And my final mileage reading. Check out my gas mileage! That's been the norm so far with this bike which makes me very happy.



I hope those of you who followed this thread enjoyed my report. Ride safe, everyone!