Thruxton 1200r running rough . Hi i hope someone may have a solution here . Not owned the bike long . But purchased from a unsavoury franchise dealership . ( im a idiot) Bike arrived with nasty cheap end cans on , very loud and popping . Swapped out for standard silencers . Checked coolant and changed. So symptoms are . Bike is a great starter from cold . But after bike reaches optimum temperature . It to me feels like a bike would if the choke was left on . Got to blip the throttle to clear it as it bogs down . Possibly running hot as can smell coolant after a ride . Bike is ridden smooth not hard . Grateful for any ideas ??
How old is the fuel in the tank? Which fuel type are you using? As soon as the UK faffed around with standard unleaded my bike began to run terrible. It would start choking during a long ride out, especially when accelerating hard in lower gears. It would stall on idle upon return from a ride. I run high octane all the time now, and add stabiliser if its left standing for months. Even then I need to run a tank to empty to really get it running well. The Thruxton R is apparently compatible with standard fuel but mine certainly is not! check if the bike has had all of the recalls done. There was a recall to do with the bike stalling on downshift blips. Has the CAT been removed to straight through or was it just end cans?
Appreciate response . Been running on E10 brand new fuel . It has a meerkat x pipe and some dodgy straight through cans . These i replaced for standard silencers . I get a feel its running hot but with no gauge cant be sure . After a good run i can smell coolant but no leaks and checked around barrels . I wanted to run a tank of E5 to see if that improved it . But local station didnt stock it . But i will try this at next fill up .
It’s possible the previous owner has put a different tune on the bike to suit the mods they added which is now affecting it as you’ve gone back to stock. Tune ECU or your local triumph dealer could confirm. I would have a go at the 12 min adaptive reset which you can easily do at home. (Plenty details to be found about it on this site) My Thruxton R has a meerkat x pipe and runs with no issues at all. Good luck!
Many thanks for response . I changed the cans as it was quite bad with these on . Runs like shit when its up to temperature . I tried stock silencers and it has improved slightly . But im wondering if the stat is stuck ? Serves me right from buying from superbike factory . It seems to bog down when its hot although no warning light comes on to show overheating . Its just the sweet smeel of coolant as soon as i stop . The reset sounds interesting i will look into that . Appreciate your help guys !!!
Does that X pipe remove the cat? if it did worth seeing if anyone else with a thruxton did same on here and if a remap was required. anything beyond an end can may need a remap. I have vance and hines cans but still have cat.
Yes i believe it has been decatted with the meerkat x pipe . As i am of the older generation . I would be qute happy to put standard x pipe with cat back on the back . I see standard ones on e bay . Again really appreciate all responses
Triumph changed coolant spec. some 30? months ago. The old and new recommended coolants don’t mix and if not completely flushed and drained when changing over to the new a thick sludge can result which can inhibit the efficiency of the radiator. Edit The original Triumph coolant was greeny/blue but now it’s an orangey/pink (tech speak) Triumph’s latest recommendation is listed as D2053 OAT coolant
If the bike is running rich when hot it's unlikely it would over heat. That's more probable with lean fuelling which will also give poor throttle response. Check the spark plugs for fouling. With carburettors I'd have suggested a plug chop but that's not so easy or conclusive on modern EFI engines as they run so lean.
Its funny but when i draned the cooant it did have a bit of sludge to it. Very very minor, almost as if it was drained into a dirty pot . Fan does cut in and out though ???
To add the incorrect coolant can also damage the barrels, which are v dear to replace. Fan on mine only really kicks in whilst on long ride, stop in traffic, at railway crossing or stop to make a make call leave bike running. All other times doesn’t activate. No different to any other liquid cooled bike I have owned.
The "new" coolant will probably be OAT as opposed to IAT used in older engines, check the specs. I've used Halfords OAT in bikes and the car for years. Colant colour used to denote type but it doesn"t anymore. Different brands of OAT can be green/pink/red etc. OAT has a longer service life than IAT coolants. They are all ethylene glycol based exept the Evans water free coolant which is a completely different fluid, way more expensive, lasts the life of the engine and has a much higher boiling point.
I put motorex in . Dealer said that should be fine . But i will double check on this as thats the last thing i need . Thanks for heads up ,
If you decide you need a complete system flush at any time in the future use deionised water, not tap!
Not saying your bike doesn’t need a change of coolant but I can’t see this being the issue of running roughy to the point of stalling while riding in your words ‘smooth not hard’ Something else going on here in my opinion.
There's nothing wrong with tap water IMO. True, hard tap water can leave deposits in domestic pipework and water tanks etc but that's over a long period of time where many 1000's of gallons are flowing through the system. How much does a bike cooling system hold? Around 1 gallon maybe and how many "impurities" are there in 1 gallon of tap water ? Absolutely feck all! Spend money on de ionised water if you want but I've never used anything but tap water and never will. Totally unnecessary IMO. Just sayin'.
