Featured 1976 One For 2022

As they'd arrived...



Off with the zorsts and drill appropriately



These baffles come in varying diameters and complete with wrap and stainless wire. A bit more expensive than just baffles but saves all the farting around getting the other stuff if you want it.



Cut the wrapping so it goes round once (any more and it's really difficult getting it into the zorst) then tie it on with the stainless wire.



Stuff it up your pipe...



And bolt it up. You can see the part number and supplier stamped on the zorst.



Obviously the bracket has been put on BEFORE it's bolted up. 'Cause it cant bloody get passed the bolt can it you tit. Having a really stupid brain I did it again on the second zorst as well. Jeeez...



So, all went rather well today. However, I didn't notice it was raining on the Admin Staff's washing hanging on the line - so it all equalled out. Honey and onions, honey and onions as they say in Swahili.........over

 

Would they really, well I honestly thought they were straight through as standard. By the way, I've just subscribed to your youtube channel. Which, I believe, has doubled your youtube income.

Edit: You are now at the top of my Youtube opening page as I don't subscribe lightly to just anybody, can you please do another video.....

 

Just a few fiddly bits to do so that it's all done ready to be dis-assembled to either paint or powder (I think I'm gonna try the powder coating on this as the whole build is a 'speriment for future builds). So where to put the gifted spirit bell? Farted around with here or there but thought let's go with this



Cut, filed and drilled a bit of round bar. Spot welded in (will tidy up and complete all welding when it comes apart) and used an old key ring thingy to try it out. I'll make up a proper one piece ring once it's powder coated.



Lights were delivered so did the bracket making, number plate bracket and fitting. Looks better with lights.



Now just waiting for wheel lacing and balancing rig and new stainless spokes so I can have a go at wheel building fitting with wider tyre and see if I can make that work. Then that'll be that for the build....Over....

 

Thanks @Sandi T, yes, I think we've all got a bit of Viking in us, whether we wanted it or not . I was thinking about cutting a piece of one horn off to make him look a bit more rufty but the Admin Staff said to leave it.

 

Thanks @RevPaul , I gotta admit, I'm dead chuffed with it myself. My taste has moved slightly towards the street tracker look.
I tried a streetfighter Bandit a while back and it grated on me as I had to wring it's neck before it would do anything and then it was only wheelies. These Triumphs are just so pretty.
I still enjoy the hardtailed stuff and will probably keep the '72 Tiger Chop but I was sort of glad to move on the Amen Framed one. I've never really liked the digger look and hopefully @Tod will keep us up to date on how the build progresses.
I'd like to think this one will be done during the summer so I can start on the next.
I'm not sure about Genius, I'll keep @darkman in that bracket due to his patience and insistence to get every little washer just right and to make sure it's a 60s original.
Thanks again..........over....

 

Blimey, another box or two. No wonder I'm skint.



Lots of paper but no instructions but hey ho, we're bikers, we'll figure it out





I liked this one. Made here in Blighty and is very sturdy, has a movable pointer and can be levelled up on one of the roller sides. I tried the hub I'm going to be working on. Ha it'll be a doddle

 

Here's the other packet unwrapped



A set of stainless spokes for a T140. Now it starts to get tricky.
There's 3 different types of spoke. This is because the wheel if offset to the hub. That is, the centreline of the rim isn't on the centreline of the hub.
I've looked all over until I got bored - the offset is erm, about half an inch. Jeez. That is, about half an inch to the right (as one sits on the bike) to push the wheel/tyre etc away from the chain, which makes sense.
Other quotes I have are on an 18" dia WM3 rim "the distance from the disc mounting rim on the hub to the edge of the rim is 5/16 inch"
Or "the distance from the outside face of the disc to the edge of a standard 18" dia WM3 should be approximately 1 3/8 inches or 35mm"
Well, that's helpful isn't it gang.
Here's the parts catalogue:



And numbers



And the parts listed in the Workshop Manual



Well, that's just rubbish. The numbers of spokes inner outer left right don't bloody match. And what's that degrees bend on the top line? FFS.
And is that the length? If it is then there's over an inch difference. And there certainly isn't that much difference in the ones I've got......bugger.

 

Also, also, I read. It's important to get the rim facing the right way. Apparently the nipple/spoke holes in the rim are drilled so accurately that they may cause all sorts of problems if it's built the wrong way round.
According to one of the sites this can be checked by screwing a nipple onto the spoke and pushing the nipple up to the rim and see what direction the spoke goes.
The spokes are set out in groups of four, you can see this if you look at the hole directions in the rim.



So let's thread in some spokes out of the 20No pack, as I don't want to confuse myself any more and mix them up.



Well, yes they sort of group into 4 per set and aim in the right direction. But you'd never get whether the rim is the right way round. Maybe that'll come later as I try to build it.
In the mean time I have some Akront ally rims on another bike. And as they are only stamped on one side (the right side on the other Bonny) we'll start with it that way round and see how we go.

 

Now, the problem with identifying the correct spokes to go where as none are marked or numbered in their packets other than we have 2 lots of 10 and one lot of 20.



There are 3 part numbers from the parts catalogue

37-7009 inner - right and left 20 No
37-7007 outer - right 10 No
37-7008 outer - left 10 No

From the workshop manual

right side 20 No
left side inner 10 No
left side outer 10 No

I'm going to assume the workshop manual is talking bollox, or my brain is bolloxed, as there can't be the same length spokes only on the right side as they have to point in different directions. Before ignoring it, I'd better check.



After checking with Mr Google and his minions I found details on a Sherman's parts site.

37-7009 7 1/2 inches 10 gauge 100 degrees bend 20 No - inner right and left
37-7007 7 3/8 inches 10 gauge 90 degrees bend 10 No - outer right
37-7008 7 5/8 inches 10 gauge 100 degrees bend 10 No - outer left

Which confirms the parts catalogue - hooray and goodie gumdrops

I'm bound to arse this up Mind you, now I've put the number plate on, the skinny back tyre isn't looking so skinny any more. I think I'll paint "Triumph" on the back of that seat. Bloody good job I'm retired I wouldn't have time to go to work.



Let's try in the morrow, upwards and outwards ....over....

 

Yes, both WTF and Yikes are the correct responses. There's always been a few, cough, cough, discrepancies in ye olde Triumph parts catalogues. Particularly in the 70s when they were on strike, having a sit in, or just having an extra long tea break.
But this was a bit frustrating as there were no clues as to which spokes were which. I'm just glad the suppliers know what they are doing.

I've not built wheels before as there was always some old bloke who lived in a village who laced wheels for a pint or three. I seem to be that old bloke now, bugger

 

Well, today I spent all the morning figuring out the parts catalogue is wrong in another couple of places where it numbers the spokes in both front wheel and back. Not a show stopper but again was confusing me.
It wasn't clear in what direction the spokes face (ie do the outside spokes lean in the direction of rotation of the wheel?)
I figured the front wheel outer spokes would lean backwards (against rotation to allow for braking) and the rear wheel outer spokes would lean forwards (with rotation to allow for the massive acceleration). This is how the tyre tread patterns are on motorcycles and made sense to me but the drawings don't really confirm that.





Look closely at part #6 in the rear wheel drawing. It's passing inside other spokes but it's listed as an outer left spoke. On the front wheel drawing the outside spokes are leaning forward in the direction of rotation. So, me being a learner and not really knowing what I'm doing was looking really hard at the drawings to try to figure it out.

Aha, I know, I'll look at the back wheels in the garage. Obviously the Hardley Movingsons and Chops weren't going to help (little did I know that I should've looked at them as well) but the T140s will:



Rear wheel from the disc side shows the outer spokes leaning forward.



This one does too.

 

Even the rusty one that needs rebuilding has them facing forwards



Bugger me, the one I'm working on has them facing backwards against rotation



Well, that's bleedin well annoying . All of the T140s in the garage, however, on the front wheels have the outer spokes leaning backwards against the rotation. So, I reckon, all is good other than the back wheel on this bike. The rim is a bit rusty and the spokes aren't good either so good job I'm building a new wheel for it.
I also had a look at the hub I'd be working on as there's 'bruising' showing where the spokes had been positioned. This is looking from the disc brake side



So, whatever wheel this had been in had the outer spokes leaning backwards against rotation. FFS maybe that's why it was spare - cause it had crashed due to the wheel being wrongly built. The wheel obviously just ripped apart under the load from the humongous acceleration forces. Poo bears
Fuck it, I'm gonna build it like the tread in the tyre - with the outer spokes leaning in the direction of rotation.