thank you both @Iron and @Iceman ...sometimes it's just nice to know someone is there! Iron - yes, made perfect sense...and, clearly, as you were typing, somewhere a penny was dropping at my end too! As I worked it out! But thank you! Iceman, thank you for your encouraging words...I have to keep going now, otherwise there's gonna be an advert on here along the lines of "2002 speed triple, in pieces, but for sale anyway". You have a workshop to make me jealous! Cheers all....more to follow...
Too late. I thought my words were too long winded so did a sketch. The Admin Staff scanned it and here it is for your perusal and edification. Keep on your person at all times and refer to it if something comes up. It'll solve all unknown problems. I showed it to Professor Whatsisface a few years ago and he came up with string theory.
I read the bottom diagram as "donut nut" as in, "hey, you donut, this nut"! I realise now you weren't being quite so direct...but thank you, entirely useful!
Bit of an update... Many packages keep tuning up..loctite, wheel bearings, drop link bearings, drag link bearings, swing arm bearings...am waiting for some grease then will start reassembly in earnest... Having said that, I did press in the drop link needle bearings, and that went well! and here is a fully re-bearinged drop link! (needs greasing). I then used todays new tool delivery to remove the eccentric hub bearings! Worked like a dream!! And was only about 12 quid! What more could a cheap-skate ask!!? This is the inside of one of those old wheel bearings; was it worth changing....who knows...I haven't changed them on my watch (bike acquired Nov '18) , and there's no indication in the service history; so...I am exceptionally happy to have changed them. (I say "changed them", I have removed them....getting the new ones in is a whole new journey)! All being well "new" grease comes tomorrow and then I can start reassembly in earnest! more to follow....
Here is a cleaned, new bearings, new seals, lubed, rebuilt drop link assembly...will torque it all up once back on wheels. Thank you all for your help so far!
Well done, Daniel - great work and, hopefully, inspirational to others who may be apprehensive about undertaking work of this apparent complexity! Have you worked out how much it cost and how much you might have saved over having it done professionally?
Top job Daniel, you Speedy is going to ride SO much better! Me being good at spending other people's money..... Have you thought about a new or refurbed shock to go in when you rebuild? ............................. then the forks will be your next project.
Thanks all...I have not worked out what the garage cost is...or what I have spent, but I will. Although it did take me two weeks to get my wheel nut off! I am also planning on a "final wrap -up" post (when I actually finish) that will summarise my "lessons learned", costs etc...for anyone who likes even more detail...so, be patient... . If you don't...maybe avoid that "update" notification... This weekend will be eccentric hub bearings, and the putting it all back together...the swing-arm is simply gonna have to wait until another time. I am sure it'll need doing and will likely attend to it in only a week or two (there will only be very light commuting in the interim). I am hoping that a wheel and axle removal, and suspension linkage disconnect to actually then get to the swing-arm will now all be an hour, tops! (he says...) I am curious myself to see whether I can tell the bike rides better after all this...I do remember winding my suspension all the way in (or was it out?) to make the ride as soft as possible...I never noticed a difference back then, maybe this maintenance will help? I'll of course report back! I had considered the rear shock...but I am unclear what it is I am looking for - what should it be like? What is it like? Can I service it to make up that difference? It is currently a "known unknown"....But the process I have enjoyed is; taking something I simply don't know...and turning it in to knowledge. You know...it turns out...it isn't magic! It's just nuts and bolts... "It is only easy when you know the answer" turns out to be perfectly true! You just need to find out the answer (once you know the question...oh, and the process...ahh...and have the tools... ) The forks will indeed be next, after the swing- arm...then, on my watch, the big things will have been (in no order, but since my 2018 ownership and not many 1000s of miles): Swing arm bearings, rear suspension linkage bearings, rear wheel bearings, headstock bearings, timing done, full brake overhaul (pistons, seals, and new hoses)... so it will be (more a less) just the forks, and front wheel to do...and then...start again... I can't say it enough, and will be saying it again, but none of this has been "difficult", but equally could not have been achieved without the patient, light-hearted, calming, wise advice offered by the people that make this forum what it is - excellent! more to follow...
Give MCT a call. They serviced the forks and shock on my Triple and it made a huge difference to the way bike handles and feels.
OK, today's conundrum ... eccentric hub bearings refit... Here's what I have, and I am referring to the "far side", the Big" side of the hub (#2 on my diagram): LHS is what came out. RHS is what I got (from Sprint manufacturing - who have been great! Rear wheel and hub service kit BE602). The "big" bearing splits in two with like a plastic bush between the two bearings, they rotate independently of each other: This double bearing is the same height as my two new bearings. The new bearings are sealed on each side. Am I over thinking this, should I just put my two new individual bearings in, face to face...or do I have the wrong item? Or...not your call to make? The "new" bearings are the correct diameters, and height...so, is it just a different method to achieve the same outcome? All thoughts and opinions welcome!
As far as I can tell from your photos provided the diameters and heights are identical to your old bearings then you're good to go. The only difference is your new bearings are sealed, they will be pre packed with grease.
It says there is a plastic bush that goes between them. I assume fit one bearing, fit bush, fit final bearing. To test, see if you can rotate one without the other rotating.
OK...so, I went to my local bike garage who assured me that what I had was just an older version of what I've now been sent... The older style with the plastic bush likely led to water ingress, the replacement "two" bearing design, with rubber seals, would be a better water tight option. With that in mind... All going back together nicely! With @Smilinjack 's new circlip... ...and big nut! And that ends my Saturday... Brake clean tomorrow and then the final putting it all back together, wheel on, torque-up...and test!
It needs a good clean, that's for sure...don't let the photo fool you! Rode it round the block...it felt sweet...
Apologies...life gets in the way, so this "wrap up" has been a long time coming - for those of you still interested! These were the costs for this whole job (everything bought efficiently and received quickly, with advice received when needed from Sprint Manufacturing) Full drop link refurb kit (bearing, sleeves and seals) SD554 £119 Drag link service kit SD550 £49.95 Swing arm service kit SD580 £35.95 (I still have these to do) Rear wheel and hub service kit BE602 £69.95 They waived postage. I bought bearing pullers, grease, and things...I would like to say this was about £75? Bearing Pullers Bearing extractor Circlip pliers (both external and internal, so x2) recommended grease I also needed other things like a correct sized socket and T55 star-drive. I was gifted some sundries from lovely people of the forum, such as new circlip and sacrificial axel nut. I used paraffin to clean anything with various nylon brushes and rags, and brake cleaner to remove residue of that... I am fortunate enough to own breaker bar, torque wrench, various sockets, threaded bar, large washers (to make a bearing press) hide happer and things... I didn't use Haynes, but I do have a Triumph workshop manual that gave all the necessary exploded views - which were invaluable (if you have no memory, like me)...and is useful if you have no memory like me.... Help (and ALSO encouragement) from people on here was invaluable as well...not just thread posts, but PMs, whatsapp...even phonecalls - thank you all! What did I learn? What did I think? Well..I am far from a mechanic...and I generally have a habit of taking something apart and putting it back together not quite as well as it was...however I have also found that slowly, slowly...LOTS of photos, and gradually understanding what it is you are taking apart has slowly built up my knowledge and confidence... And this was no different. It really is, simply, nuts, bolts, bearings and washers... You can't really get much wrong if work slowly and methodically...if something "wont undo"...STOP. If something "won't fit"...STOP. There was a lot of taking a step forward...stopping...and working out a solution to another conundrum...That is where all the learning and experience comes in...and if you like that sort of thing is the fun bit - the acquisition of "knowledge"... I learned LOADS! I would recommend that anyone could do the same, it really wasn't difficult...the "right tools" make life so much easier, and for that alone are worth the cost... Yes...it took me a while, in total, but that was because i had the luxury of time, and used it...having said that, now earthing is put back together it should take less time to redo when needed - a lot of the issues were surrounding weathered in bearings and rusted sleeves... And, the best bit...I feel I can "give back" to the community if needed now as well... I am equally scared of "the engine"...hopefully if the time comes, I'll be able to apply the same approach to that if needed... Good luck, and thank you! Ride Safe!
