I like you speed too, its a gorgeous example if I were buying a new triumph today, hands down I'd be getting a street triple, all things considered.
Have one on mine, after running open exhaust and high flow filter without a retune. The most noticeable difference I had was a bit smoother throttle at slow speeds/parking lots, which was just a bit annoying. I figure if it forces the bike to run a bit richer that’s not bad on its own. With all the ethanol in all the fuel (10% here) it would run hot if it was running lean. Before the booster plug my pipes had bronzed up really well from the exhaust temp. Cleaned/rebrushed tthe finish after and now they have barely recolored near the top. Not a scientific measurement, but shows a good drop in temp, I’m guessing from going from running lean to running a bit richer.
@OsteKuste Thanks for your input on this! E10 is heading to be more popular and it’s great to know what to look out for tbh. I say “popular “ but it’s really “a forced” option for all. it’s coming. I’ll certainly be getting one and I agree, if it’s a bit rich, so be it.
So, according to the weather forecasts, today was the only half decent day this week for a bike ride. However, I also had an 11am phone call scheduled to discuss getting my pension money, what to do? How about set off 9ish to explore little single track lanes in the countryside, then at 10:50 take a break on a hill, opposite another with a mobile phone mast on, giving me full bars of signal and discuss pensions to the sound of a skylark and a blackbird Afterwards I set off to explore more lanes, taking any turn that looked unfamiliar to see what I could find... On getting back I found the top bolt of the two holding my left pannier rail had fallen off and pannier was flapping about. The bolt also holds left air box and clip for wiring but all seems OK. It's come loose before and I had I tightened it after using threadlock about a year ago but that was obviously not sufficient.
So, today I came to replace bolt that 'dropped out' only to find it had sheered off level to frame So I have a sheered bolt, in a blind hole on the inside of the frame, which is inaccessible to tools without removing the whole back end probably. Going to have to find professional help for this, and someone willing to take on such a horrid job. In pic below, pencil points to sheered bolt, red circle is the good one on the other side.
Yeh, local bike mechanic spent a couple of minutes looking over things and came out with what I thought when examining the problem, i.e. nigh on impossible to access, and 'what a shit design'. He suggested going to an engineering place he uses for difficult stuff, but on reflection I think I'd be happier trying myself. I'm retired and have nothing else to do, so can take days meticulously dismantling rear end and trying things out. As the airbox seems pretty well mounted by the front bolts, if I can't extract or drill out the sheered bolt satisfactory, I can come up with some bracket for the airbox attached to other fixing bolts. That would then mean having to bodge some pannier rails attached to other parts of bike for use when touring. I'll start a thread on here about my progress in all this, but for today I'll stick to drinking beer...
drill and tap the other side? By going clockwise on the opposite side, it'll be anti-clockwise on the other side?
Had a frustrating few weeks trying to sort an issue with a Daytona Velona A80 speedo on the trident. At any speed above 40 mph the needle just swept round to full speed. I rang the guy at Digital Speedos and he thought it could be interference from ht leads but i have resistor plugs n caps . In desperation i tried a ferrite ring on the cables which takes out hf . That didnt work. After a few more calls to Jon at digital speedos. We thought it could be tbe speed sensor. I had it taking a feed off a magnet i fixed to one of the sprocket bolts as mine are stainless. It turns out the sensor didnt like magnets but needs ferrous. I swapped the bolt out for a carbon steel job and hey presto it works perfect. This is all down to Jon at digital speedos who fault finded me through the whole issue what a great after sales service. I would highly recommended them
Finally got round to replacing my 17 year old battery in my trophy. I thought I might be pushing my luck going for 18.... Old battery still came up good on my optimate charger but it felt like it was turning the engine over a little slower than normal when cold. I tried to get a higher capacity Yuasa battery from halfords click and collect but they incorrectly tried to give me a lower rated battery at the checkout. I guess it's easy done as the only difference in model number is the inclusion of an H. Anyway they couldn't get the H version for 2 to 3 weeks so I used tayna.co.uk. They had a motobatt version for less so I went for that. It was great service ordered late friday, delivered sat morning. Took the opportunity to install the optimate charger lead as I've always taken off the seat and used the crocodile clips (for 17 years as I bought the charger at the same time as the battery....). The new battery has 4 poles so I thought I'd be smart and connect the optimate lead to the spare 2 poles. I hadn't really thought it through as the poles on the motobatt were lower than the battery case. So I cut down and filed some bolts to fit, doh, fly leads wouldn't fit because they hit the battery box sides... So I had to bodge a fit with longer bolts and a nut to lift the connectors above the case... I should have just used the 2 other poles which had a C frame added to lift the terminals up above the case already. But being pig headed has always been an attribution of mine.... Only drawback so far is that it's 0.5kg heavier than the old battery and considering the trophy is a bit heavy anyway it's not the best idea to add weight. If I get another 17 years out of this battery it might be my last ever....
about a month ago I put my Bonneville on my neighbours hard stand for a couple of days. well today I finally cleared my hard stand so could move my bike back again. was worried the battery may have gone flat, turned ignition on and nothing (bugger) so pushed it over to mine got the meter out and checked how flat it was and 13v (what the fcuk) puzzled for about a minute before my lone brain cell kicked in and I remembered the kill switch, turned that on and low and behold ignition lights and fuel pump running, so after pump stopped choke on press starter and she fired right up (oh happy days) just need the weather to settle down so can have a little ride out and hopefully clear some of the cotton wool out of my head. (might not forget about the kill switch then)
Today I wrestled bike into the conservatory using makeshift wooden ramps and a 33 point turn, so I could begin work trying to extract sheered bolt. After removing left airbox and rear shock I realised that swingarm didn't drop enough out the way to allow access for drilling out bolt, only 8cm clearance until the suspension linkage mount, I'm not sure I want to remove swingarm, probably would with the help and moral support of a mate, who also suggester an option of him welding another bolt on for extraction purposes. For now, I'm resorting to beer again, and seriously considering just making bracket for airbox and making my own pannier support attached to other places. (Would be more suitable for my panniers too). Tomorrow I may try the extremely long shot of cutting slot in end of bolt stub and using screwdriver bit in ratchet to unscrew it. Could use clamp or other method to hold bit in slot and help stop it turning out.
"For now, I'm resorting to beer again".....that's my kind of plan, too, when things don't quite work out, @brown mouse! If things are really problematic I may even resort to a stiff martini.
