2011 Speed Triple

Hi all
I have recently bought a 2011 Speed Triple 1050 for my son it is the none ABS model. My question is has anyone encountered the following issue. When engaging first gear from a standstill it makes a loud clunking sound (louder than they normally do), then when engaging second gear (low or high speed) again it makes a loud clunking noise. I have done all the preliminary easy tasks, correct drive chain tension, correct clutch cable adjustment, stripped cleaned and adjusted the gearchange mechanism, correct fresh engine oil and filter. Before I start to dismantle the clutch to inspect the components and the gear change mechanism, I thought I would see if other members have encountered this and if so how you sorted it. Every day is a school day so to speak, I find no matter what experience we have there is always something new thrown up. The machine has a genuine 7500 miles and full history. It appears from the VIN number to have the updated mechanism as below taken from Fowlers. Thanks everyone.

 

Hi Red Thunder thanks for the information, I have taken the covers off, stripped down the clutch and inspected both the friction and steel plates, there was very minimal wear, I checked the specs with a micrometre and all are within five thou of each other, placed together they are spot on with the specified clearance, I was surprised that the whole unit looked factory fresh, there was a couple of plates that had slight sticking, the two judder springs likewise are like new, the oil is fresh and a new filter (you are correct with what you say re the semi V fully synthetic oil, the latter can contribute to sticking clutch plates (although not all suffer from that oddly enough). I also stripped out the gear selector mechanism, however on inspection the detent spring appeared weak (you could remove it by hand), all other components also looked factory fresh. I have ordered the new parts and gaskets, as soon as they arrive I will put it back together and give her a run out to see if the problem is cured. I will post some pictures on when I have finished.

 

All parts arrived, (well the offending spring) and 3 gaskets. If any of you are having the same issues, then I would point out the following, the clutch basket springs at the rear, there are 6, you will find 3 of those springs are very loose, do not think there is a fault, they are designed to be like that, the reason being they take up the tension in the offset ring gears when meshed under load, when re installing there is a hole drilled into both ring gears, this allows you to place a suitable drift into it to align both the ring gears that in turn will then mesh with the drive from the crank, once that is done, place the spacer onto the gearbox shaft and push it home in the basket, you can then release the tension on the ring gears and build up the clutch in the following sequence.
Anti judder seat washer
Anti judder spring (it is important to install this concave side outwards) think of the spring like a dished dinner plate, the dished side goes outwards
Thick friction plate
Thick steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thick steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thin steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thin steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thin steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thin steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thin steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thick steel plate
Thin friction plate
Thick steel plate
Thick friction plate
Don't worry if you get them mixed up for whatever reason, you can measure both the steel and friction plates to give you the required measurements to allow you to put them on in the correct order, also the thicker friction plates are slightly different in colour. All this for a £4.50 spring that should have been stronger in the first place, the new German engineered spring has more tension. All buttoned up and now running with a silky smooth gearchanges (not a clunk to be heard). I have uploaded a few photos. Next up in my garage is my other sons 1299s Panigale. I will put a post on soon re progress, it is currently running 215 BHP on the Dyno, although it does have a fair few trick bits on.

 

Hi, you have to remove the front cover first, this will allow you access to the bolt on the clutch cover that the front cover obstructs, after rem oval of both covers you can then access the clutch plates, take care on removal of the plain and friction plates, I would suggest stacking them in the order of removal and then cable tie them together so you can't mix them up (the thickness of the plates vary) look at my original post that explain, once the clutch has been removed you will have to remove the retaining nut that holds the clutch basket on, I used my air gun to remove the nut (for heavens sake don't use it to put it back on again), once the nut is removed the basket will just come free. It was the spring that had become weak, a new one cured the problem. when replacing the nut that secures the basket you will need a clutch holding tool, if you do not have one I can let you have a Laser holding tool for £10, also a full gasket set for the same price, the spring is cheap and readily available should you need one. I also have a rear wheels hub finishing kit, genuine Triumph £50 and radiator and oil cooler protectors by Evotech for £60, both are as new. Anything further please come back and I will do my best to assist. Ride safe all.

 

There is only one spring, if you look at the picture I have posted (above the part stamped 278) you will clearly see it, the spring has been uprated and of German manufacture, if you look on Fowlers website you will find it there along with the part number.