https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-65...097986?hash=item3ac5e319c2:g:j0EAAOSwzrxUudNe https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-65...931093?hash=item3d495e70d5:g:gFcAAOSwfVpYrvbu
A great little tool for setting TDC or 38 BTDC and if you have the later primary cover you can use the pointer and rotor marks as SR has said, also i have a little slide hammer (top pic) i use for the AAU but a 3" 5/16 bolt can be used. One thing to check is the length of the new bolt for the tapered spinner as in the past i have had a few bottom out and not clamp the new Boyer spinner to the camshaft taper.
If you haven't the special tool (I have one but it sometimes isn't the correct thread) use a screwdriver to feel for the slots in the flywheel. Get the Top Dead Centre by removing the sparkplugs and watching with a torch for the piston to rise as speedrattle's notes using the back wheel to turn the engine over. You will feel the screwdriver fall into the slot on the flywheel. Once you have the TDC position then turn the wheel backwards (you want 38 degrees before TDC) and you will feel the slot with the screwdriver. You can see me doing it with the screwdriver into the timing hole cause typically the special tool didn't fit on this one either, pffft. Edit - obviously under the close scrutiny of Henry who watches my every move in the garage
You have the dual coil so put it where ever you'd like, but they aren't the nicest looking thing. So for your standard-ish bike, I would recommend under the seat where the two coils normally sit, out of the way of the seeing public. Bolt it up in there so you can get at it and feed the HT leads as per standard.
The clutch pressure plate ? Oh, he he, sorry - I was lookin at the wrong end! It's the back brake master cylinder - the connecting rod to the forward controls is removed to give access to the primary cover Henry still keeping an eye on what's going on
your motor was made in 1972-- i can read the serial number. how do you have a disc brake? inquiring minds want to know
those will work. the one in your hand goes down the plug hole to measure piston height. be careful with it as it can jam against the piston or valves as everything moves those brass ones look like the ones that go down the hole to intersect the crankshaft slot. there are two threads- early and late. one of those should fit, probably. they look homemade out of brass pipe fittings. was the PO a machinist?
Awesome. Haven't got too far just took the wiring from points and condensers off. Currently obsessing about coil mounting location and have to take the points plate off and advance unit as well.
look at these instructions for a pazon smartfire https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw1UA8wjebF0whVJA6CCBnvn its quite similar to the boyer micro. fig 1 shows how to mount a minicoil with zipties and two pieces of rubber fuel line. ive done it that way twice with no problems. its not aesthetic, just another option
As your machine has a later primary cover, you can take the three allen bolts out of the round cover that has Triumph etched in it. Inside you will see the rotor that spins round in the stator. As the PO put this later cover on I would have thought that this also will be a later rotor that will have timing marks on it. It will have TDC and perhaps 38 BTDC. You can use the pointer in there, fixed to the primary cover, to align up and check you have the correct timing. So, you can check TDC by the piston depth gauge (the thing in your hand in the photo above) also by the slot in the flywheel and also by the timing mark on the rotor against the pointer. Once you have TDC then turn back wheel backwards to get the timing marks to align and the slot in the flywheel (take the depth gauge out of the sparkplug hole before you do this as speedrattle is correct that it can jam things up in there) (I don't use the depth gauge thingy I just use a narrow stick and feel it to TDC and then take it out). Crack on.
5/16 bolt doesn't thread into the advance unit for removal. Maybe goes in like 1 1/2 turns and stops.
