Another manual link for you and a pic of where the alternator wire exits the back of the primary...next to the breather pipe. http://www.classicbike.biz/triumph/Repair/45-55/45-55TriumphRepair.pdf
Hi so I have finally removed the primary cover and there is no alternator fitted looks like a spacer has been fitted to remove the alternator, but now I have another concern the threaded bar that runs through the smaller sprocket wasn’t wound in tight and I am just wondering do I wind it back to the sprocket and nip the nut on the end up ?? Thanks in advance Ethan.
Yes it should be tight...but you should be looking to fit an alternator or you will only have lights for as long as the battery charge lasts.
Is an alternator only something I could find second hand or is there somewhere that makes a replacement still thanks Ethan .
https://www.trisupply.co.uk/product-category/alternators/page/2/ But there are plenty of other parts suppliers.
Do your research. Loads of info on pre unit triumphs on inter web. Read the manual from classicbike.biz. Also get a parts manual. You will need to fit an alternator to hold the sprocket on the crankshaft. The hand tight stud will need to be torqued up with the rotor in place. Don’t run it as it is as it will run like that as it’s got a magneto ignition system but the sprocket will be loose. I’ve got 2 pre unit 650s. They’re great bikes. You’ll love it when you get out on a sunny day. Good for 100mph. The bike that gave the bonneville and Thruxton their names. The brakes are not as good as the motor so think ahea d. Ask if you need any more info. I might bore you to death on these babies. Taff
Ethan, Along with the alternator stator and rotor, I assume you'll also need a regulator/rectifier and the sub-harness wiring to connect them. The Thunderbird is often considered the sweetest of the 650's - nice power/torque output without being bonkers - and yours is a really lovely example. Definitely worth any investment required in cost, time and effort - the rewards will be fully repaid.
Hi quick update I ended up just running the lights off a charged battery so I could get the bike out, after a service new oil plugs and tyres it wasn’t running well and was leaking oil from head gasket and push rod tubes,so I have the head off the bike and I am just wondering if there is good and bad gasket sets or if they are all similar copper head gaskets thanks again. (It has a 9 stud head stamped 69 on the inside of it)
Head gaskets should not leak oil as there are no oil ways between head and barrels, you old copper gasket can be reused by annealing it. The most important part is using the correct seals and getting the crush correct.
Hello again I have fixed the problem with the head I stripped it and changed all the gaskets I think it was a leaky push rod tube running down into the fin between the head and barrel but that’s all fixed now, I am onto my next problem and would love some advice I am trying to remove the clutch hub and I have the clutch puller tried that and it didn’t work it is really stuck on there I can’t seem to free it off the shaft any advice would be greatly appreciated as always thanks in advance Ethan.
In the end I had to do as you suggested and grind and chisel it got it off and replaced all back together running perfect almost no oil leaks now (just small gearbox leak). Brings a huge smile to my face every time I take it out just thought I’d say thank to you all for the info very much appreciated,thought I’d share a few pics from today.
Ethan Give your self a big pat on the back. It's fantastic. Great to see the old bikes still out there looking great. Regards Joe.
