Grab bar rust removal attempt. It was pretty bad before. Looks decent now. Deciding if while I have access to free blasting and painting it should remain chrome for now or (as the rear shocks) gloss black. Used Canadian Tire chrome rust remover and some aluminum foil. Thoughts?
It definitely seems to be. My buddy will be taking it apart to blast... If it isn't good well replace. What do you think ref the grab bar? Is it worth keeping chrome the way it turned out or should it be blasted and properly painted while I have access to the equipment? Shocks will be black anyway... Just looking for opinions both practical and esthetic
The chrome is very slightly ratty but will not get any worse if you stay on top of it. Again, your choice......personally I would say leave it chrome and return to it at a later date when you have more time and have reflected longer on your aesthetic preferences. Paint on grab rails is liable to scratch and chrome does not provide much of a key for paint to adhere. There is no right or wrong to your choices - just preference and time pressure.
I need to replace the chain and sprockets. Local bike shop quoted about $220 CAD for aftermarket chain and front/rear sprockets. Seem to be plenty for cheaper on eBay.. but I don't want to unknowingly buy a crappy set. Can someone point me to a good source? Edit: also the eBay sellers are looking for a sprocket teeth count front and rear as well as the number of links in the chain .. anyone know this information off hand some of my parts are in a different province currently
There is false economy in a cheap chain that will repay you with frequent adjustment to accommodate premature wear. You will pay a little more for a DiD but know the quality.......unlike eBay. Ditto sprockets. Your dealer price is in the ball park subject to quality. You need a 525 pitch chain but google if you are unfamiliar with types (O, X etc.,) and sizing. The standard rear sprocket is 43 teeth and you can fit a 17, 18 or 19 tooth gearbox sprocket. I think the original fitment would have been 17. Longer gearing gives marginally lower rpm and slightly improved economy at the expense of acceleration. I suggest you stick to 17 for all the difference it makes.
Thank you! That's actually $40CAD cheaper than what I had been quoted by my shop, as well. I will order that (although probably not gold, lol)
You will pay a premium for an OEM spare when chains and sprockets are generic items. https://shop.triumph-motorcycles.ca/chains__sprockets/id-T2017230/Chain_and_Sprocket_Kit 240Ca$ Versus https://sprocketcenter.com/street-s...g-chain-triumph-865-900-bonneville-06-13.html $155 US $206 Canadian
according to that site looks like stock size is 18 front, 43 rear. You mentioned doing a 17 before but I assume that was really a "stick with stock" as I think you quoted 17 as stock? Also, I notice a lot of x ring chains. Is that a must or is o ring fine too? I have read up on the differences and it seems that x provides more speed due to less friction but still keeps it as well lubricated as an o ring?
OK. Going by the parts catalogue ‘stock’ on the SE gearbox is an 18 - logical given the smaller rear wheel. The O v X ring argument has to be marginal but marketing (perceptions of value!!! - with the emphasis on PERCEPTION) matters! You choose.......
Another one for you fine folks. I have these images of my tires (both need replacing). Which is the model number? Are these the best/adequate tires meant for this bike?
Tyres...... General consensus is the best tyres for the Bonnie are either Avon AM26 Roadrider or my preference Michelin Pilot Activ. Both are available in your sizes Front 110/80 17 i.e. 110mm wide and 80% as high as wide on 17” rim Rear 130/80 17 get the idea?! The tyres other sidewall markings of note are 57 or 65 load capacity and H speed (130 mph) rating - full translation here https://www.avontyres.com/en-gb/tyre-care/technical/load-index-and-speed-rating-sy/. Both Avon and Michelins comply. Finally the age stamps show week and year of manufacture 3613 and 1412 so August 2013 and April 2012. DOT and E2 marks show USA and EU standards compliance.
Another very informative post. Found today they are indeed the pilot tires by Michelin. I'll do the same again likely. About to post a big wheel progress photo series...
Progress shots. Initial shots show wheels as they were, covered in oxidation and filthy. Then show clean and degreased but not polished. Then first kick at polishing with autosol and 000 steel wool followed by a buff. Finally a gif showing an unpolished and a polished side. Let me know your thoughts! Question for you pros. The final closeups show the kind of marks I can't get rid of. Just a matter of multiple more passes with the autosol? Will it ever look beautiful? Would a buffing tool be of use?
Another question for you pros - are UMI o-ring chains good? The shop that quoted me $220 was for JT sprockets and UMI o-ring chain.
What you have there is residual fine pitting. You decide when ‘enough is enough’ but some sort of mechanical buffer will ease the task of polishing it out. Plenty of YouTube videos on alloy wheel restoration to help ......I would try white vinegar with fine wire wool. Not heard of UMI over here but Japanese quality likely better than Chinese! JT about the biggest name in sprockets. You are clearly making major progress. Just protect what you have done before heading overseas.....wax or lacquer spray.
I'll check out some videos. For the wax / lacquer... Just turtle wax or is there special stuff? The only "lacquer" I'm familiar with is like a clear coat spray paint type product, is there another you're referring to?
