Chain tension

I was always led to believe that any chain slack should be adjusted whilst the bike is on the side stand and absorbing load and any adjustment made at the tightest spot with the bike being wheeled to check adjustment at varying points along its length. When I used purely chain wax on an o ring chain my bike shop told me to occasionally add a squirt of general lubricating oil to the o rings to keep them lubed as the waxes can be a bit too dry.

 

May be best to check with your dealer if the handbook doesn't explain the correct procedure. Be surprised if you're ready for a new chain and sprockets on a 2014 year bike unless the mileage and use is very high or it has been seriously neglected. As Half Ton says check for seized links first and try freeing these up.

 

I have a 2008 Thruxton as from last week so not adjusted mine yet as all set by supplying dealer. Just checked my handbook and it states that tightest spot should be adjusted when the bike is on its side stand. It also gives guidance on how to check for chain wear limits by suspending a weight from the chain and then measuring length of a specific number of links. Do you have an owners manual for yours?

 

As creaky says the thruxton is meant to be tightened on side stand but might be different for yours. The chain will always wear unevenly so, yes pick the tightest area and use that as the guide. If the difference between the tightest and loosest is becomes excessive then change it.
If when you accelerate from light and your feet are flapping behind you you are probably stretching the chain unevenly!!

 

Triumph Workshop manual says that the Bonneville chain should be adjusted on the side stand.

 

If you can visualise the three important pivot points you'll understand better why all bikes get their chains adjusted whilst on the side stand.

Watch this :

 

you can check how good or bad the chain and sprocket is by trying to pull the chain away from the back sprocket if you can you need to look at both to check for wear, and if you have a chain off the bike back sprocket you should not be able to bend/move it sideways very much if you can it is scrap.
Keith

 

All good advice.If you replace the chain then put new sprockets on as well.
No point putting a good chain on a bad sprocket.
Wouldn't worry to much about hanging a weight off the chain,tightest spot and adjust on the side stand.

 

America handbook says 20 to 30mm of slack, workshop manual says 40 to 50mm, surely with the bike on a centre stand or lift and the rear shox disconnected so the axle and swing arm pivot can be lined up with the gearbox output shaft 20 to 30mm is enough play?

 

If you have an unevenly stretched chain, you will almost certainly have an unevenly worn sprocket/s.
Nearly always best to replace them both, probably the only exception is if a crap chain was fitted and stretched prematurely. If there is only the slightest sign of "hooking" on the sprocket/s, then I would replace.
Common mistake is chains set to tight, which contributes to premature stretching.

 

My mot examiner pointed out this very same problem, ended up buying a new chain& sprockets with 18000 mls on the clock.

 

Rather than disconnecting stuff to get the swing arm into the correct place for adjustment a ratchet strap over the seat can be used to raise the swing arm to the correct position allowing you to make adjustments and check for tight spots in the chain / sprockets.

 

Take pictures of sprockets & let's have a look. If rear wheel supported on paddock stand, that's no different to adjusting on side stand or wheel on floor. I have yet to come across a chain that is completely uniform in tension, so i agree adjust chain & measure freplay at its tightest point.

 

20 mm is not enough. At least 30 for reasons in the vid.