Featured T140e Recovery... (1-3/4" Su Single Carb Conversion)

The wiring on this was 'different' to what I'm usually used to on Jap bikes to be honest...
The Neutral light wiring over the top of the casing was a new one to me and didn't look quite right somehow..


The Boyer Ignition was hard wired/soldered directly into the loom for some strange reason so that was swiftly snipped apart and waterproof connectors used. I mounted the Boyer box behind the metal side-panel using shit-to-a-blanket adhesive backed foam.


Whilst I was in the area I thought I would mount a new Regulator/Rectifier under the battery box. (The existing OEM rectifier was removed and the Zenor Diode was disconnected but remains in place). I welded two studs & thick washers to the underside and used nylocks with threadlock to make sure it didn't come off.

 

Just playing with the wiring under the seat.. putting in missing rubber grommets to protect the indicator wiring passing through the rear mudguard & fitted angled connectors to the coil wiring & HT Leads to make them less strained.

 

That’s probably where my clothes would be found!

 

Fitted the barrels last weekend... (Trial fitted the head & barrels on the bench to sort out the crush/squish on the pushrod tubes).
I used 'Turbo' pipe clamps to hold the rings in place whilst I fitted the barrels and they worked a treat for £3 a pair off Fleabay.

 

Lashed out with the credit card to get an SRM Clutch plate and a 7 plate clutch (and some new metal plates as the other ones were corroded...). Everything else is new in the clutch department so I thought 'feck it' and got the 'whip-wop' card out!

 

Yeah.... But then you find that you need a washer or some other gizmo which has been taken by aliens (or the dog in my case) never to be seen again by human eyes and stops the build in its tracks!

 

Is this right as the stud is not flush with the end of the rotor?...
The stud is the right length and is fitted correctly into the crank with the locking plate underneath. (I have torqued up the nut).

 

The locking tab is on there but I haven't bent it over as yet... I just wanted to see what you guys reckoned first on the thread issue...

 

Whilst I / we were pondering the alternator nut/thread issue I did a trial fit of the head...
I'm using a thicker copper head gasket as the head looked like it had been skimmed at some point in its previous life, plus I couldn't get the crush squish right even using the thinnest seals. Anyway with the thicker head gasket the pushrod clearances all measured ok... so the head bolts have been fitted but not torqued up as yet.



The Eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted that I have haven't fitted the 4 washers under the inner head bolts... I forgot to order some as the bike came without the spacer or any washers under any of the 6 Allen headed bolts centre bolts. (I will fit them when Postie puts them in the letterbox.... that's if the dog doesn't get them first!)

 

So I'd thought I'd do a trial fit of the SU carb whilst I wait for the four head bolt washers to arrive


The previous owner(s) / modifiers had done a bit of a bodge job on the carb to airbox fitting.. (Cut up tyre inner tubes...Nice!).
The alloy bellmouth affair you can just make out was a good idea but didn't seal right (and looked shite tbh).


So I need to come up with a better solution than old inner tubes (Which would degrade into a sticky goo in petrol vapour).

 

So I molded a 10mm thick FKM rubber block at work in order to try bridge the gap between the carb & airbox.


I did a trial fit of the slab of rubber that evening...




The rubber was laser cut using a gasket from the SU Carb repair kit making it slightly oversize to accommodate the larger hole in the airbox. (Charlie the Techie who was helping me decided to add his... and mine... signatures to make it personalised : ). The laser couldn't cut all the way through the rubber as it would set fire to it, so we only laser cut/etched about 2mm into it to give me a pattern to work with.


The laser can't cut angles either so I've had to trim the internal intake sides with a scalpel using silicone grease as a lubricant to make it easier to cut/trim.
As you can see the original hole cutter who carried out the single carb modification didn't line up the carb to airbox holes exactly... more trimming is required methinks...