The other thing I forgot to mention was free-ing up the floating disc bolts (if your bike has them). There are plenty of videos on Youtube, but it involves putting a large bolt and some nuts through the floating disc rivets and turning to free up. Then also a light sand of the discs with some fine grit wet and dry to remove any glaze.
I had new Triumph pads fitted at 10k service as the originals were nearly down to the metal. At 18k I decided an upgrade was required and fitted EBC HH pads to the front. I have nbeen so impressed I have fitted the same to the rear even though there was planty of meat left on the originals. Much more progressive and plenty of bite even when cold.
On my pads I change every year irrespective. I do like to use Brembo or ferodo failing that ebc. But like above those disc floaters do need spinning every year to clean them out and keep them working. And yes I use a nut and bolt and two cork washers and just tighten up snuggly and spin a few times does improve the braking. Ride Safe Joe.
Change pads every year joe really How many miles do you do and does it include track days etc? An interesting little game an advanced rider once told me is to see how many miles you can do at a quick (not balls out) pace without touching your brakes. Surprising using throttle control, engine braking and a little forward planning how far you can go plus it's an interesting little challenge. I have had people follow me and say when I've called into a cafe that my brake light wasn't working until just now
You should own a classic British bike you soon learn how to use engine braking and throttle to the best effect...........mainly because the brakes are almost non existent by today's standards.
10k miles p.a. is fair enough I suppose, I've only being doing 3k on average on the bike. I don't use it for commuting and do 20k plus in the car.
Eldon I do between two and three every year. But rather have brakes that work and I like to strip them right back and clean. Out on open roads I would rather use revs and engine but most of my work is in town and I believe drivers are getting worse. It just makes me feel safer. Trick-Dicky I also ride classics yes the brakes are not as good but better engine braking plus I do the fluids every year with good silicon based fluid. Ride Safe Joe
You can't knock good maintenance Joe I had my Honda cb1000r for 15k miles and had the pads out each year for a clean and fettle. When I sold it they were still the original pads front and rear as from the factory.
Eldon That's got to be a record. Maybe with me its a little overboard but having had a few accidents in my past it just reassures me. Ride Safe Joe.
Yes - it's surprising how little brake you need on a bike if you use the engine. My old I was out with an advanced rider recently, who told me to dab the rear brake pedal slightly when slowing into corners even when using engine braking - lets numpty car drivers know you are slowing.
I just installed EBC HH sintered pads front and back on my Street Twin (no other changes) and they are an improvement. Bike stops much better.
I have a 17 Street Twin and have covered just over 24,000 miles. Also for info the Honda is a fully restored 72 CB750. I have fitted EBC organic pads and the front tyre now squeals under braking, the forks didn't even compress with the old pads!
Slightly off-topic, but I am restoring a 1994 Honda NTV650. Have rebuilt front brake, but lever still comes back to bar. Have bled several times and no visible air coming out. It has a goodridge hose. Is it just a cr@p brake?
Do this check, hold the Brake hose firmly, apply brakes , does the hose pulse heavily or lightly, if heavily then replace the hose and re bleed. If lightly then investigation of calipers and master cylinder to check seals etc. Also is your bike fitted with ABS ? There could be fluid bleeding across back through the ABS system/side ??
I had the same trouble on my old NTV, (great bike IMO0, II had fitted a braided steel hose and the lever was very spongy afterwards, I eventually bled it back to front using a syringe on the bleed nipple to reverse the flow of fluid, worked very well afterwards. Also as a precaution, that night I tied the brake lever up with a zip tie so the brake was firmly applied overnight, the next morning, a lovely firm brake, result!
